There is only 1 adjustment wrench needed. If you want to do it the cheap way, you can heat up a 17mm open end wrench - the head needs to be slightly thinner than most - and put a 45 degree bend right where the head starts from the handle, and then drop it into a container of old oil to restore the temper.

However once you have used the clawfoot socket, you'll never go back to the open end wrench. The adjusting nuts are quite tight as there is no locking nut, so the socket makes the job much easier and since valve adjustment needs to done every 12,500 miles, the cost of the socket is more than worth it.

You will most likely have to remove the spring clips (#1 in your diagram) to allow room to put the wrench onto the adjusting nut. When reinstalling them, much sure they are COMPLETELY ON.

Definitely remove the plugs. You can use the PS pump to turn the engine, but you will have to remove the charcol canister and windshield-washer reservior for room. Turning the engine at the crank bolt (27mm) is much easier on you and the PS pump.

If the rubber seals are still soft, they can be reused, but the VC gasket and crush washers should be replaced.

And as long as the VC is off, you can check timing-chain stretch.

Turn the engine CLOCKWISE only! Clockwise as you face the engine from the front of the car.

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