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  #1  
Old 06-29-2011, 01:53 PM
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Takes 2 tries to start when cold...thinking accumulator??

My 190E 2.6 takes two tries to start when cold. It used to do it even when warm but I changed the OVP and that reduced the start problem to just when cold. I'm thinking accumulator. Seems from what I've read here that bad injectors usually cause start problem when hot? Am I right about this?

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  #2  
Old 06-29-2011, 02:42 PM
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does it use a cold start injector.
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  #3  
Old 06-29-2011, 02:43 PM
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if you want to guess, then guess injectors over accumulator. reason is, leaking injectors leak all the time, hot, cold, day, night. accumulators are only supposed to hold pressure for approx. 45 minutes after running, not going to be relevant on a cold start. me, i'd rather check it, or have it checked by someone with the knowledge and tools. could be something else entirely, like a bad coil. worst stress on the ignition system is a cold start. good luck, chuck.
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Old 06-29-2011, 02:46 PM
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If your ambient temps are above 40F in the AM, the cold start injector has little if no influence on starting conditions. I've written a number of posts regarding this including testing it personally in a number of configurations here:
http://www.w124-zone.com/articles.php?article_id=40

--

When was the last time you did an ignition tune up? Plugs, Wires, Rotor + cap?
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Old 06-29-2011, 04:05 PM
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My m103 does the same thing. Sometimes I can "goose" it right after starting and it will stay running. Starts fine when warm. I just did an ignition tune up, and that's when the problem started

I am behind the gasser learning curve. I don't even know what this mixture BS is that everyone talks about. I am a little reluctant to mess with stuff. I am starting to wish I would have held out for an m104.
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Old 06-29-2011, 09:22 PM
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Yep...it's burning off something real quick on the first crank that is in a Cylinder(s) from leakage. Best way to tell is if it starts up on first crank when warm and second or third crank when cold. I replaced my injectors which helped a lot with idling and a little with starting. But after the head gasket replacement, it started cold or warm on first start.
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Old 06-29-2011, 09:49 PM
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The Engine Temp Sensor (NOT coolant temp sensor for cluster) and EHA also have the largest impact in starting condition. You can test the ETS, but EHA requires replacement -- there is no real "test" to check condition.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashedd View Post
My m103 does the same thing. Sometimes I can "goose" it right after starting and it will stay running. Starts fine when warm. I just did an ignition tune up, and that's when the problem started

I am behind the gasser learning curve. I don't even know what this mixture BS is that everyone talks about. I am a little reluctant to mess with stuff. I am starting to wish I would have held out for an m104.
Same exact thing here. Never had an actual problem getting it started, just have to crank for a second longer. It started after an ignition tune up and fuel filter change. I've never thought much of it.
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  #9  
Old 06-30-2011, 08:08 AM
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One simple thing that can cause this is using premium fuel, believe it or not. If you are running premium, try midgrade just to check it out, some engines do not start as well on premium.

But on a 103 my first guess would be crapped up spark plugs caused by worn out valve stem seals, when it's time for valve stem seals this is how you know, a couple "false starts" in the morning. Look for heavy yellowish-brown deposits on the spark plugs.
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:02 AM
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Thanks for the input. I just changed the valve stem seals and spark plugs. Fairly new dist cap and rotor. I like the idea of midgrade gas. I've always used premium. I'll try that first and the engine temp sensor next. The EHA is pricey >$200. I will wait on that. I might just go ahead and replace the injectors since the car has 190k if the above doesn't work..
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  #11  
Old 06-30-2011, 12:35 PM
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I will think about injectors as well. When my old plugs came out they were bone dry. And there is a history of the valve stem seals being replaced, could perhaps use it again. I will have to do more research into the cold start valve thingy.

EDIT:

I mean engine temp sensor
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  #12  
Old 06-30-2011, 09:19 PM
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Worst case scenario on trying midgrade is the car doesn't run as well for a tankful.
Best case scenario is it starts better and might even run better on midgrade.
Alternative positive outcome is the engine still false-starts but you might find it runs just as good on midgrade and might continue to use it and save some gas money.
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  #13  
Old 07-01-2011, 02:25 AM
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Yes...save your $$$ on the EHA until you've ruled all else out (good luck!). Try new plugs first and get the non-resistor copper recommended...I think NGKs. These cars like the cheap plugs better. Run a can of Seafoam through the tank and see if you notice any difference. I did.
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  #14  
Old 07-01-2011, 04:58 PM
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And relating to using a cleaner like seafoam, is another possibility is the intake valves could have a lot of buildup on them from when the valve seals were old. In a cold start the crud on the back of the valves can absorb a bit of the incoming fuel charge and cause false starts. Usually you can pull an injector and shine a light down the injector hole and see the back of the intakes.
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  #15  
Old 06-03-2013, 05:26 PM
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Old thread, but I wanted to report that I finally changed out the fuel injectors and now PROBLEM FIXED. Other suggestions seemed to help, but problem prevailed until new fuel injectors.

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