engine mounts 560SEL - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rsmartin · #1 07-05-2011, 07:28 AM

Is it a DIY in my garage to replace engine mounts?

The hardest thing I've done myself, in my opinion, is track rod mounts.

Just wondering about whether I can reasonably reach the mounts and lift the engine with a jack enough to get the mounts and dampers installed.

Ferdman · #2 07-05-2011, 07:50 AM

rsmartin, you should be able to replace the engine mounts in your 560SEL in your garage. It's best to block under all 4 wheels so the entire car is 10" to 12" off the floor and safe to work under. (I have homemade wood ramps that I use.) From there the replacement is fairly straightforward. After loosening the existing engine mount bolts raise the engine with a block of wood under the oil pan and a floor jack. Removing the engine mounting bracket with the engine mount attached is the easiest approach. Recommend doing one side and installing the engine mount to cross member bolt loosely before starting on the other side. The passenger's side mount will probably be easier than the driver's side mount so start with that one.

Best to replace the transmission mount at the same time. Buy top quality mounts because you don't want to do this job over anytime soon.

rsmartin · #3 07-05-2011, 08:50 AM

thanks. i'll give it a go

dealer service foreman thinks some of what i think is a poor idle is actually because my engine mount is sitting on the frame, according to him.

jhodg5ck · #4 07-06-2011, 09:42 AM

just to re-iterate, buy Quality mounts, which this day and age means buy Genuine. All the aftermarket mounts break down/fail quite quickly. If you want to give your AT mount some added support you can fill the void w/ windshield urethane.

I'd check out your engine shocks while you are @ it..check their mounts as well.

Jonathan

big dog 2 · #5 07-06-2011, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsmartin

thanks. i'll give it a go

dealer service foreman thinks some of what i think is a poor idle is actually because my engine mount is sitting on the frame, according to him.

Had a loud buzzing noise with vibration throughout the cabin especially while the engine was at idle in gear.

Got new engine mounts along with the transmission mount and I can hardly hear the engine anymore! No vibration!

rsmartin · #6 07-16-2011, 09:09 PM

well did front engine mounts and dampers today.

passenger side not so bad but drivers side was a total PIA!!!

guess MB decided they'd just put every hose all on the same side of the engine so you can't get to anything.

but it's over now. hope i got those little bolts holding the mounts tightened down enough because they were really hard to manuever. the bolts through the mount into the engine support were no problem but those little bolts are almost impossible to get to. glad i had a bunch of different wrenches.. especially my ratcheting closed end wrenches

can't really tell much difference in how the car feels. engine still has a mild shake the shakes the car.

guess i'll have to go somewhere for more diagnostics. dealer said they can put it on scope and see what it shows as far as ignition problems etc.

glenmore · #7 07-16-2011, 11:44 PM

If engine mounts were the cause of your rough idle in gear, you would know the difference immediately with new mounts. I just changed the motor mounts on my 1991 300CE and it is smooth as butter now. The tach reading is the only clue that the engine is on.

I am just finishing up engine mounts on my 2000 C280 to cure the rough idle in gear. The typical diagnostic is with the engine is running, raise the engine a little bit with a piece of wood under the oil pan to see if the vibration goes away.

rsmartin · #8 07-17-2011, 09:10 AM

yeah, i kinda doubted it was just engine mounts based on the way the engine runs. it seems almost like a miss but it's not.

passenger side mount definitely needed changed. driver's side didn't look too bad but now both are changed along with new dampers

i've had it smoked for vacuum leaks. haven't changed out the distributor and rotor yet. i did test all wires and coil for resistance according to the manual. everthing was within specs although some of the plug wires were at the very top of the range

the last guy that worked on it as far as the rough idle said fuel distributor. i'm trying to rule everything else out first before going that route. that bad boy is EXPENSIVE!!

addl info: drove it some this morning and i actually can tell a difference in that i don't have near the vibration anymore. still have a slight shake at idle though so definitely something else going on. idles much smoother when the car is hot compared to when it is cold.