Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:15 PM
EricSilver's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 1,273
Zerex G05 + Liquid Detergent = OK?

I am flushing my cooling system with approx 80% water and approx 20% detergent – specifically LA Awesome cleaner.

Filled it yesterday and will drain tonight. But I will not be able to drain it completely -- and honestly don’t want to since the car runs significantly cooler with the soap reducing water’s surface tension.

So, for the soap residue that is left behind (which should be small) will there be any negative reaction with Zerex G05?

__________________
2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

------------------------------------
Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Palm Springs, CA
Posts: 781
Eric,
I use "Water Wetter" here on the desert. It was 118 last Saturday and engine temp with AC on was about 110C. I also run just the minimum amount of coolant to protect me down to 0F
Anziani
'93 300CE 199K
'95 E420 123K
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-07-2011, 02:26 PM
tbomachines's Avatar
ಠ_ಠ
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,352
Exclamation

Use non-foaming detergent. I don't know what LA Awesome is quite honestly but its important to use non-foaming detergent or your water pump will just churn bubbles. I think this is also outlined on the dieselgiant tutorial if thats what you are following. Not sure how to answer your question but figured I'd throw this little nugget of info in.
__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-07-2011, 04:14 PM
Gilly's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
You should be fine, I'd just do a water rinse (full refill and warmup), puke that out, and refill with bottled drinking water (the cheap gallon jug stuff) and the G05. NOT the deionized/demineralized/distilled stuff, just filtered drinking water
If you had bad accumulation of oil in the cooling system, I would have gotten commercially available "bilge" cleaner (for boats) and used that instead of soap.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-07-2011, 04:22 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
Drone aspiring to Serfdom
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 32(degrees) North by 81(degrees) West
Posts: 5,554
Call Them and ask what the "Stuff" is.

Whatever form of VooDoo/HooDoo Juice you end up using; IT MUST BE COMPLETELY RINSED OUT OF THE COOLING SYSTEM.

Detergents in the Mercedes Cooling system are used as a "De-greaser".
[A.K.A. "Dawn Dishwashing Detergent"]

Then the Dreaded "Citric Acid Flush" is performed.
(MAY do more harm than good? 'Jury's still out .)

I can empathize with your trying in an innovative fashion to "Enhance" your
"Water Flush".

BUT, as mentioned there are surface contact enhancers that are Purpose made
to be used.("Purple Ice" , "Water Wetter" . Etc.,Etc.)

As much FUN as the Mercedes Cooling System Maintenance Circus is...
(AND AS CRITICAL as it is in some engines)
I'd not enter ANOTHER Snake Oil derivative of UNKNOWN actions into the Mix
without completely investigating it's TOTAL effects.

Sorry to Rain on your "System" development.

as always: Your Mercedes, Your Pleasure!
__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-08-2011, 04:33 PM
I told you so!
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Motor City, MI
Posts: 2,838
The soap may make the coolant too alkaline, which may attack aluminum parts. The last time I checked, the pH of my cooling system was 7.5 - close to neutral.

There are products to reduce water surface tension such as Photo-Flo. I'm not sure how available it is with everyone going to digital photography.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-09-2011, 02:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 146
I also use Watterwetter with MB coolant or G05. I really think it runs a few degrees cooler in the very hot cental ca valley
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-09-2011, 03:44 PM
Gilly's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
Ah too many variables to tell. If you just have the stock temp gauge, can you really detect "a couple degrees"?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-09-2011, 09:34 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 97
if i may chime in, i am a big fan of doing radiator flush/fills every 2 years or so, depending upon mileage. for me, this is about every 25K miles. i am NOT a big fan of introducing chemicals or detergents into the cooling system unless it is absolutely warranted, as in the case of a recent head gasket failure where oil actually ends up in the coolant. for me, here's what i do, keeping it really simple and effective (you are forewarned):

The 10 Steps
1. drain the coolant and dispose of in an environmentally friendly way (not down the toilet or other sewer drain). also, don't leave coolant out in the drain pan or your neighbors might get peed off when their pets turn up dead from drinking it. don't worry about draining the block. repeat, don't worry about draining the block. it's a waste of time IMHO.
2. connect garden hose to spigot. turn spigot counter-clockwise until water comes out of the end of the garden hose. (i told you i was gonna keep it simple.)
3. let garden hose run until "fresh" water runs from the end of it.
4. stick flow of water from garden hose into the plastic fill bottle in your car and fill to "full" mark.
5. drive car to temp.
6. park car in the same place it was before.
7. drain radiator into the driveway. it's mostly water at this point anyway. your bleeding-heart-liberal neighbors might stare at you in disbelief when you do this, but that's what you have a middle finger for.
8. repeat steps 4 through 7 as many times as it takes to get the water run as clear out of the bottom of the radiator as when you put it in the plastic fill bottle in step 4. do not proceed to step #9 until/unless the drain water is sparkling clean.
9. fill with 50/50 Zerex G-05 and bottled water (you should only need 2 to 3 gals)...nothing else... not the orange pukey stuff, not the pink sissy stuff, not the green glow-in-the-dark "its-universal-coolant-and-can-be-mixed-with-anything-according-to-the-autozone-dude" stuff...nothing else. (caveat...ok, maybe the MB approved stuff for those of you who have big buck$ and like throwing money down the drain [pun intended]!)
10. repeat above process in about 25k miles. for those of us who live in harsher climates maybe more frequently, say, once yearly.

doing a radiator flush and fill is a great summertime project, especially when you need to get away from the wife who is driving you bananas about painting, wallpapering, interior decorating, and other non-essential non-MB-related activities.
__________________
john
***********
'98 E300 TD "Lukas" 156K
'11 C300 "Mia" 10K, Gorgeous!, Wifey's Car
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-10-2011, 09:37 AM
POS's Avatar
POS POS is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 2,506
Quote:
Originally Posted by hobberslobbers View Post
The 10 Steps
1. drain the coolant and dispose of in an environmentally friendly way (not down the toilet or other sewer drain). also, don't leave coolant out in the drain pan or your neighbors might get peed off when their pets turn up dead from drinking it. don't worry about draining the block. repeat, don't worry about draining the block. it's a waste of time IMHO.
2. connect garden hose to spigot. turn spigot counter-clockwise until water comes out of the end of the garden hose. (i told you i was gonna keep it simple.)
3. let garden hose run until "fresh" water runs from the end of it.
4. stick flow of water from garden hose into the plastic fill bottle in your car and fill to "full" mark.
5. drive car to temp.
6. park car in the same place it was before.
7. drain radiator into the driveway. it's mostly water at this point anyway. your bleeding-heart-liberal neighbors might stare at you in disbelief when you do this, but that's what you have a middle finger for.
8. repeat steps 4 through 7 as many times as it takes to get the water run as clear out of the bottom of the radiator as when you put it in the plastic fill bottle in step 4. do not proceed to step #9 until/unless the drain water is sparkling clean.
9. fill with 50/50 Zerex G-05 and bottled water (you should only need 2 to 3 gals)...nothing else... not the orange pukey stuff, not the pink sissy stuff, not the green glow-in-the-dark "its-universal-coolant-and-can-be-mixed-with-anything-according-to-the-autozone-dude" stuff...nothing else. (caveat...ok, maybe the MB approved stuff for those of you who have big buck$ and like throwing money down the drain [pun intended]!)
10. repeat above process in about 25k miles. for those of us who live in harsher climates maybe more frequently, say, once yearly.

doing a radiator flush and fill is a great summertime project, especially when you need to get away from the wife who is driving you bananas about painting, wallpapering, interior decorating, and other non-essential non-MB-related activities.
That's pretty much how I do it; doing the block is a real PITA. Flushing 3-4 times seems to get 95% of the old crap out.
__________________
- Brian


1989 500SEL Euro
1966 250SE Cabriolet
1958 BMW Isetta 600
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-10-2011, 12:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 97
and for these old diesels, it's probably the cleanest they have ever been anyways.
__________________
john
***********
'98 E300 TD "Lukas" 156K
'11 C300 "Mia" 10K, Gorgeous!, Wifey's Car
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-11-2011, 09:58 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,156
What is the point of using a "detergent"? It won't remove any mineral deposits or rust scale... sounds like snake oil to me.

Draining the radiator and block every three to five years and replacing with a 50/50 blend of Zerex G-05 and distilled water should keep your cooling system squeaky clean. The G-05 has surfactants that reduce surface tension so you don't need "soap", Water Wetter, or any other snake oil for proper cooling system performance.

If you buy an old model that appears to have not been maintained properly and has evidence of loose debris in the cooling system, do a thorough backflush with tap water until the debris is flushed out.

Duke
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-12-2011, 12:09 AM
sptt's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 691
Did radiator flush per above direction and worked great. Took a little longer than before but cycled all the coolant out until clear. I have the MB Coolant but can't see anywhere on it if it is Concentrate or 50/50. Since I wasn't sure I assumed it was concentrate that way I can add later and engine is running a little cooler now. Anyone know for sure?
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 07-12-2011, 12:18 PM
bhatt's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Oakville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 421
Just want to clarify the term 50/50 for everyone so nobody gets confused. I'm assuming you don't want people to mix up equal parts of coolant + water then pour it in. If you do that, the block being full of water will dilute the mixture so you have less than 50% coolant!

Here's what I do:
Look up the coolant capacity (let's use 10 litres for this example)
Pour in 50% of that amount of pure coolant (so pour in 5l of coolant)
Then top off with water to the full mark

That way you are absolutely sure that there is 50/50 in the system.

In the above example, if the block holds 2l of water, you would otherwise end up with 4l coolant+6l water which is only a 40% concentration.

Just thought I would point that out.. hope it helps!
__________________
'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD
'87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD
'86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD
'92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD
'90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD
'01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD
'03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi)
'07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 289,000km (162k mi)
'07 S550 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi)
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 07-12-2011, 04:05 PM
sptt's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 691
Great tip and explanation!

Thanks

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page