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  #16  
Old 08-02-2011, 05:31 PM
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I was stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for an hour or two before this happened. Made it through traffic and onto the highway where we were doing about 80 km/h. Suddenly we smelled burning rubber, heard the squealing, and the temp rose to 120. At the time we were crossing a bridge with no breakdown lane and were unable to stop ($800+ fine for stopping on the Port Mann Bridge). About halfway across the bridge was when the top hose let go, and I pulled over immediately after clearing the bridge.

Based on what happened I think it's unlikely that plastic from the rad jammed the impeller, because the rad letting go was the last in the chain of events. You could be right though, what do I know? lol.

At the time I assumed the rad cracked, allowing coolant to spray the belts, causing the squealing. In retrospect, it appears that the water pump seized for some reason, causing the squealing, burning rubber smell, and eventual over-pressurization of the cooling system which led to the rad exploding.

I called Milo in Vancouver a little while ago. He guesstimated $700 to replace the water pump. Not sure if I can handle DIY-ing this, unless you folks tell me otherwise.

*sigh*


Last edited by DroogBC; 08-02-2011 at 05:45 PM.
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  #17  
Old 08-02-2011, 06:21 PM
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Wow $800 for a car failure on the bridge sheesh I hope you didn't lose an engine over that, I'd probably have let them tow me and pay the bill rather than risk losing the head on my '87 diesels. Definitely better than a $2500+ repair bill

in the states a new water pump sells for about $170 or less depending on where you buy it. Its considered a DIY job if you have the tool, the serpentine belt on its tensioner pulley is a bit tricky but this is not a tough job, easier than on some cars where the entire radiator has to come out.
They must be charging full book price and some padding to try to get $700 for that job.
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  #18  
Old 08-02-2011, 06:21 PM
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Surprising since it turned by hand before. Anyway, here's a DIY link:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103WaterPump
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  #19  
Old 08-02-2011, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirnbeiss View Post
Surprising since it turned by hand before. Anyway, here's a DIY link:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103WaterPump
I never attempted to turn it by hand... I probably should have though. Then again, if the spinning belt can't move it chances are I can't either, eh? (I since have tried spinning it by hand, in both directions, with no movement... then again the belt is in place and under tension, so I'm not sure if I would/should be able to move the pulley anyway.)

Thanks for the info fellas. Frankly, at the moment I don't have the tools (nor the time I'd imagine) to r&r this by myself. That tutorial makes it look do-able though.

*edit* Just read that it's a $170 part. Granted, everything costs a little more here in Canada, but that's still roughly $500 in labor and they told me it would be done in a day. Ouch.

So what tools are needed to do this again?

I'm somewhat knowledgeable when it comes to vehicles, but admittedly my knowledge is far more theoretical in nature than what is gained by real hands-on experience. Realistically, is this something that I want to tackle as an auto-tech n00b, or am I better off spending an excessive part of my paycheck to have it done by a professional? Realize, this is our only vehicle and I'm going to have to take tomorrow off to handle this. It needs to be complete tomorrow, or I'm boned in a big way.

Last edited by DroogBC; 08-02-2011 at 06:47 PM.
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  #20  
Old 08-02-2011, 06:48 PM
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bump for updates, because I edited my last post 5x, and if I'm calling a towtruck I need to do it very soon.
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  #21  
Old 08-02-2011, 07:02 PM
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Replacing the water pump is not hard, per say, but for your first DIY job on the car, I wouldn't recommend it. You will need a full selection of metric tools for the job.
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  #22  
Old 08-02-2011, 07:56 PM
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I appreciate your candor and look forward to diy-ing some of the remaining issues the car has, but for the present issue I'm going to let a professional handle it. The tow truck just left, and the shop says it will be done tomorrow. Here's hoping for no surprises, and no mechanical failures in the near future.

Thanks everyone!
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  #23  
Old 08-03-2011, 06:38 AM
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DroogBC, as you mention the smell of burning rubber would have been caused by the drive belt wearing off on the jammed water pump pulley. It's strange that a water pump would suddenly seize without any warning signs or sounds. I would ask the indie for his opinion on the chain of events that led to your engine overheating, and what caused the water pump to seize.
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  #24  
Old 08-03-2011, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DroogBC View Post
I never attempted to turn it by hand...
Sorry, I confused it with this thread:

Cooling system PROBLEM!!!
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  #25  
Old 08-04-2011, 06:37 PM
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Went to pick up the car yesterday afternoon... they hadn't touched it yet. Sweet.

Talked to them today and they were working on it. They reported back that the belt tensioner was seized and in need of replacement, and the belt needed replacing too. Estimated another $400 on top of the $700 they estimated the water pump replacement would be. Said the car would be done today by 4... too bad I won't have that extra $400 for a day or three.

Guess I'm taking the frigging bus.
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  #26  
Old 08-04-2011, 07:29 PM
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Just called them again... car is done. $1250+ with tax.

Plus $300 for the Rad and coolant I installed, plus over $200 in towing=

Time to add comprehensive and buy a gas can for the next time it leaves me stranded. Lmao
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  #27  
Old 08-04-2011, 08:29 PM
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Owning a 20+ year old luxury german car without a garage and full tool set is not for the faint of heart, especially if you live in Canada.
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  #28  
Old 08-04-2011, 09:04 PM
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No doubt.

I'm asking Santa for a complete metric socket set, jackstands, a torque wrench, and some valium. lol
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  #29  
Old 08-04-2011, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DroogBC View Post
Hiya all,
As I was on the highway we started to smell coolant, then the belt started squealing like crazy. Looked down and saw the coolant temp gauge was pegged at 120. I was on a bridge with no breakdown lane so I had to keep driving until we cleared the bridge. Before we made it over to the other side a cloud of steam blasted from under the hood. Needless to say I was assuming the worst.... blown headgasket, warped head, seized engine.
Not to be a Negative Nancy but don't be surprised if your head is at least a bit warped. If you overheat again -- on one or more occasions -- you may next see a massive cloud of steam out of your tailpipe.
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  #30  
Old 08-05-2011, 09:08 AM
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Nothing would surprise me at this point, lol. I'm hoping for the best though.

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