Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTangas
Anytime you do anything with the timing chain, such as replacing or removing for head work, you should always manually roll the engine over at least two complete revolutions. You roll it over at the crank bolt and two revs takes you through a complete cycle. If you did this before hitting the starter, then likely your timing is retarded. If timing was advanced, you would not be able to make two complete revolutions by hand due to piston/valve contact.
I am having similar problem with my car. It is Mercedes 300E, 1993 V6, 3.2L. I made a mistake of not setting my crank on TDC before I changed a leaking head gasket. I have tried 100* to set my timing chain in vain. I have followed all the procedures outlined in the manual and what the MB experts have adviced hear to no avail.
-Everytime I set TDC and dowel marks as adviced and set the intake camshaft in the retarded position, the engine will not go through two complete revolutions without getting stuck. I am rotating the engine clockwise while standing infront of the car facing the engine/ motor. It this the correct engine rotation or am I doing it wrong?
- I tried to set everything again as above and rotated the engine counter clockwise(CCW) and the crankshaft completed 2 revs to get back to the previous mark (TDC). However, I could not rotate the crank/engine when I tightened the chain tensioner all the way in and my timing chain is getting very tight to the point that I am afraid it might break. Please help me with:
*direction of the engine rotation. Why do I have valves touching the top of cylinder in clockwise crank/engine rotation. Not so much when I rotate it in CCW
=timing chain tightness issue...what would be the remedy? I always disassemble the chain tensioner before I put it back to manually rotate the crankshaft.
I am waiting dumbfounded. I don't want to mess this baby because the body and interior are in such an excellent shape.