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  #46  
Old 09-10-2011, 12:40 PM
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Being cheap I would erase the code and make it come back again, then crawl under the car and clean the connector and check the adjustment, which is all a good tune-up for replacement if necessary.

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  #47  
Old 09-11-2011, 08:45 PM
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I erased the code again, but after one restart the code is back. I looked at the switch, and it is tight, so is its connector. I did not see the reference holes for adjusting it in neutral. This transmission is not the car's original, but one off the shelf of the Mercedes/BMW/Jaguar transmission specialist shop in NJ. It was installed 14 months ago. I don't know its history.

I found a beige cap that turns with finger-pressure on the vacuum modulator. Is that how I adjust the shift quality, or do I need to remove that cap and use a tool?

The front flex disk is cracked, I will replace it before anything else.
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  #48  
Old 09-12-2011, 09:42 AM
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Send me a PM with your email address if you'd like the instructions for adjusting the NSS - not too hard although very tight quarters. It sounds like you've found the vacuum adjustment - counterclockwise to soften the shifts. Newer style has only about 90 degrees of movement.
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  #49  
Old 09-18-2011, 09:41 AM
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The NSS was not aligned on my car. I used an "L" shaped hex (Allen) wrench to align, because of the tight quarters it fits easier than a drill bit. The connector was clean inside. But the code set just the same after the adjustment. Next I replaced the switch, and the code was gone!

I turned the vacuum modulator 90 or so degrees counterclockwise, and it helped, but the shifts are not completely smooth yet. I understand that there is a way to remove that cap, turn what's underneath manually, then replace the cap for fine adjustment. I tried gently, but could not remove the cap. I don know whether it should come off at extreme clockwise or extreme counterclockwise position.

The flex disk replacement was pretty smooth, although it's tough to do it on four jack stands. Catch one is after removing the bolts, one needs to gently hammer the disk free of the flanges. Catch two is one must remove the transmission mount to pull out and insert the front disk.

Thank you deanyel, JimF, and emerydc8! I am code-free and proud of it!
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Last edited by Andras; 09-18-2011 at 10:42 AM.
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  #50  
Old 09-18-2011, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andras View Post
The connector was clean inside. But the code set just the same after the adjustment. Next I replaced the switch, and the code was gone!
If that was the original NSS, then it's guaranteed to be "toast". . . as the picture shows, my connector was also clean inside.

However, the NSS internal sw contacts had long since ceased to be contacts as the pic shows.

Congrats on a job well done!
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  #51  
Old 09-24-2011, 11:35 AM
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My code-free pride did not last long. Today my CE light came on, and here is what I found:

pin code
7 (CC-ISC) 6, 11
8 (BM) 5
19 (DIAG) 4

There were no codes six days ago. Should I erase these, or consider them newly set? What should I check next?
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  #52  
Old 09-24-2011, 12:35 PM
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'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andras View Post
pin -------------code -------desc
7 (EA/CC-ISC)---6 --------- Starter lock-out/backup lamp switch (S16/3)
7 (EA/CC-ISC)---11--------- Fuel safety shut-off to LH-SFI control module
8 (BM) ----------5 --------- Max Temp exceeded in F23
19 (DIAG)--------4 --------- AIR injection inoperative
I would reset them and see what returns. In the meantime, check out the AIR path. Check to see if the "hose" has fallen off from the pump.

Does it work when engine is cold? Should work for about 2 mins, then go off.
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  #53  
Old 11-06-2011, 06:01 PM
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After some weeks of delay due to body shop work to repair some hail damage, I am finally back to the maintenance and repairs. My CE light comes and goes, right now it's lit.

PIN CODE DESC
7 (EA/CC-ISC)---6 --------- Starter lock-out/backup lamp switch (S16/3)
19 (DIAG)--------4 --------- AIR injection inoperative
19 (DIAG)--------26----------Upshift delay switchover valve, circuit open or circuit short

The neutral safety switch was replaced with a good used one, and adjusted. Before replacing, the code would not go away, after replacing it comes back after a good while.

AIR system seems to work. The hose is on, and it makes a sound the first two or so minutes with the engine cold.

The upshift delay works every time the car is cold. It is pretty annoyingly keeping the car in first gear for a quarter mile of so.
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  #54  
Old 11-06-2011, 08:35 PM
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Code 26 means the upshift delay is not working properly, at least not all the time. Holding first gear when cold is normal - see your owner's manual. It is annoying though. I'm fine with it not working except that the CE light comes on. Here's a nice old thread on code 26:

Upshift delay switch over valve
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  #55  
Old 11-14-2011, 11:56 AM
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After reading the Upshift thread, I found a cracked molded rubber elbow by the firewall, marked FRJ 18, and will try to get a replacement from the dealer. I hope this will solve the code 26. Thanks, deanyel.

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