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#31
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Ya. Thankfully it failed as I was putting into a parking spot, not on the highway!
I guess there is one silver lining to this cloud, it happened as I was driving not my friend's mom. At least it's not overheating anymore I would have thought a failing ball joint would give more warning... pops and clunks, tons of steering play... the wheel feel didn't seem like things were about to go this badly. -J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. Last edited by whunter; 08-20-2011 at 09:08 AM. Reason: attached pictures |
#32
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That is not a pretty sight. Having a failure like that on the open road would be very catastrophic.
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1989 300CE |
#33
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One interesting tidbit: I'm now 2 for 2 on benzes stranding me, but 0 for 5 on VW/Audi products.
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. |
#34
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You should play the lottery!
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http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg 1991 300E - 212K and rising fast... |
#35
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Let's recap:
Quote:
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#36
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Yup, I shouldn't have ASSumed that things were ok. I should have jacked the car up and given it a close inspection. That bit of play in the steering sure turned out to be worse then the steering wheel made it seem! A good inspection is probably good advice whenever someone begins driving any new-to-them older car, more so when it's had only oil changes for the past 10 years.
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#37
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It seems strange, but I have only ever heard of ball joints failing in parking lots and never on the road. A certain sports sedan I used to drive had tie rod failures - again, only ever in parking lots. I guess that cranking the wheel over to enter or leave a parking spot puts more stress on these parts than driving down the road?
Are the ball joints replaceable on this car, or do you need the entire lower control arm? I replaced the lower control arms on my '93 at about 130K miles - 3 or 4 years ago. But I wanted everything fresh, being more concerned with safety and having the car drive "right" than with the cost... |
#38
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Quote:
400E's and 500E's got r134a in 1992. All other W124's got r134a in 1993.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#39
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Jason, glad that you weren't injured as a result of the ball joint failure. Difficult to tell from your picture, but is the fender damaged or just the cladding knocked loose? Time to buy some new clips for the cladding from the local MB dealer.
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Fred Hoelzle |
#40
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The fender was damaged a bit:
Last edited by whunter; 08-20-2011 at 09:10 AM. Reason: attached picture |
#41
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[QUOTE=jcyuhn;2774055] A certain sports sedan I used to drive had tie rod failures - again, only ever in parking lots. I guess that cranking the wheel over to enter or leave a parking spot puts more stress on these parts than driving down the road?
QUOTE] I just replaced my center link and steering damper. This looked like a tie rod or center link connection issue.
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1989 300E 2005 Acura TL 2011 Hyundai Elantra Limited Swing hard! Take chances! |
#42
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Answer
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This mount should be damaged on the right front. Fastlane: Rubber mounting, strut to body http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=1243201444 Bushing kit, front lower control arm, x2 per car MB# 1243300675 Ball Joint, Lower Control Arm Front Suspension (2 Per Car) MB# 124 333 03 27 Sway Bar Bushing, Front Outer (2 Per Car) MB# 124 323 49 85 Sway Bar Bushing, Front Inner (2 Per Car) MB# 124 323 56 85 ************************ Tie rod, x2 MB# 2103502153 Strut rod, x2 MB# 2103503306 Camber strut, x2 MB# 2103503406 Thrust arm, x2 MB# 2103503806 additional parts required for superseded arms mounting, x6 of each MB# 2103504506 MB# 2103520043 ************************** Repair kit, rear sub frame forward mounting MB# 1243500441 Repair kit, rear sub frame back mounting MB# 1243510242 Joint, x2 MB# 2203520227 Rubber mounting, x2 MB# 2023520165 *********************** Differential Mount, Sub-frame to differential housing. Front Section (2 Per Car) MB# 124 351 13 42 Differential Mount, Sub-frame to differential housing. Rear Section (2 Per Car) MB# 124 352 77 65 ***************************** Flex Disc, x2 MB# 1704100015 Rubber boot, drive-shaft bearing support MB# 1244100781 .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#43
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I replaced the drag link this morning, each ball joint was dead and there was a ton of play at the wheels. Steering is vastly improved now
I also repaired the climate control sensor fan, which got the ACC working correctly. Annoyingly as I was driving today the cabin blower quit working. I guess you fix one thing and the next will break right away... -J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. |
#44
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Jason, check if there is a 30-amp strip fuse on the driver's side shock tower. It will be inside a small black plastic box. The strip fuse develops a hairline crack over time and needs to be replaced.
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Fred Hoelzle |
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