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  #1  
Old 08-17-2011, 12:03 AM
Fixin' anything moving
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 247
sealing compound for 116 and 117 engines

Hi All,

This is regarding a 117.968 560 engine:

What kind of "sealing compound"is best to use on the front timing cover and on the end cover? The manual only says "sealing compound". I had bad luck before with just using silicone. What is recommended?

Also, the upper oil pan to engine block gasket. The manual does not mention a sealing compound there. What would be though safe to use?

Thanks,

Greg

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1983 560SL Megasquirted (originally 380SL)

My former Mercedes:
1985 300SD ~190k
1990 560SEL
2000 C220 CDI
1983 380SEC 102k dual-chain conversion
2000 C280 70k (sold)
1987 300DT (W124 - sold)
1972 220D (sold)
1971 220D (sold)
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  #2  
Old 08-17-2011, 12:07 AM
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Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 844
Hylomar.

Everything else will leak after a certain time.
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  #3  
Old 08-17-2011, 12:15 PM
Fixin' anything moving
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 247
Well, a Jaguar XJS enthusiast assembled a long book of knowledge from other enthusiast. There it is stated that hylomar is a "gasket dressing" to be used only in conjunction with paper-type gaskets. They mention that it will be blown out from between two metal surfaces (such as the timing cover to engine block surface) that do not have a solid gasket between them.
They mention Loctite 518 or Permatex 51813 (which is supposedly the exact same thing as Loctite owns Permatex).

Any sharing of long term experience would be welcome.

Thanks!
__________________
1983 560SL Megasquirted (originally 380SL)

My former Mercedes:
1985 300SD ~190k
1990 560SEL
2000 C220 CDI
1983 380SEC 102k dual-chain conversion
2000 C280 70k (sold)
1987 300DT (W124 - sold)
1972 220D (sold)
1971 220D (sold)
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  #4  
Old 08-17-2011, 11:51 PM
Strife's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: KY USA
Posts: 2,238
I have to do this also, and what has been recommended to me is Hylomar "blue racing formula" (they may make other stuff for paper gaskets); it's used on the nose pieces of superchargers, which had better not leak at all during their lifetimes and/or between bearing rebuilds. I think that this material is polyester-based and very different chemically from RTV. Note that this type of stuff is not designed to fill large gaps/voids - it's designed for machined metal to machined metal interfaces ONLY - no paper or rubber gaskets involved. And- a little goes a long way.

My first experience with this type of material was on the cam cover of the nasty little GM Brazillian 4-cyl engine of the 1980's, and it really didn't leak when applied properly. It is expensive stuff, though, and reading the directions is important.
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  #5  
Old 08-17-2011, 11:55 PM
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Loctite 510 anaerobic sealant
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  #6  
Old 08-17-2011, 11:59 PM
Strife's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: KY USA
Posts: 2,238
Quote:
Originally Posted by GregZ View Post
Also, the upper oil pan to engine block gasket. The manual does not mention a sealing compound there. What would be though safe to use?
The oil pan sealing flange and the block are machined aluminum (or iron). The gasket supplied is coated with graphite, and I don't think that any sealant is needed, assuming that those machined surfaces haven't been damaged.

I would not ever get RTV anywhere NEAR a 116/117 engine. I found bits of definitely non-MB RTV in the oiling tubes for the cam bearings of my 380 engine. Keep in mind that all the oil in the entire engine goes through those tiny holes in those tubes and if even ONE gets plugged, you will have big troubles. I did.

People have said that it's very difficult to get the intake manifold sealed without RTV, and yet, others have done it with old -school sticky "gasket dressing" or "gaskacinch". After this experience, I'm going with the gaskacinch.

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With homebrew first gear start!
85 380SL
Daily Driver Project

http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm
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