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#1
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Stuck front rotors: to heat or not to heat?
I'm replacing all four rotors on my dad's S320 as his are a bit warped after sitting for 10 years. Unfortunately even on this nearly rust-free specimen, the rotors are rusted stuck. Have done quite a bit of slamming with the sledge, and use of AeroKroil. I've noticed this issue has come up in searches a lot, but I see differing advice on use of a torch. When my w124's rear rotors where stuck on, a torch got them off immediately ... however, I knew I would be replacing the rotors and the bearings. On this W140 the rotors are getting replaced but not the bearings ... will I damage the bearings or overheat the grease if I lightly torch around the top of the rotor "hat"? Some people say they use a torch; others say don't. Thoughts?
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#2
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Dry Ice ?
Go To Publix and get some.
USE THICK leather gloves and oven mitts. Get those suckers COLD, and then rap with your hammer. (I know the COLD will Shrink the Rotors! But at this point you're just trying to get some Movement to break the "Italian" Bonding.) ['e-mails to Glinda Good Witch of the North] To answer your Direct question: Just How HOT do the Rotors get under HEAVY breaking? (I'll bet those suckers are a couple of hundred degrees,If you pull that Chassis down from 80MPH a couple of times with no rest in between.) If y'all wanted to be empirical you could slap the wheels back on and road test for HEAT then "Shoot" the rotors with a Infrared Thermometer.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 Last edited by compress ignite; 09-11-2011 at 05:03 AM. |
#3
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Quote:
Dry ice sounds like an option. Do you just hold it on there? Stupid question, but how does one dispose of dry ice?
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#4
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Shouldn't it just melt and turn back into CO2 in gas form?
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#5
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Well, I told you it was a stupid question, didn't I? ;-) I wasn't sure how long it took to melt or if it needed to be kept in a special container.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#6
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Daft question - stuck as in caliper and pads stuck and rotor won't spin or stuck as in caliper and pads removed and it still won't come off?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#7
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I assume you took the little retaining screw out...
Don't grab the dry ice with your bare hands I think a rotor in use gets a lot hotter than 200 degF
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#8
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Frozen CO2
Yes it'll Transmifograte from the Frozen State back into it's Gaseous State right
Quickly if not kept COLD (As in cheap Styrofoam Cooler). No,You don't wanna handle it with Naked Skin. [That's what the Dual protection of Gloves and Pot Holders are for] Other Poster was correct in assumption that the Dry Ice is applied Directly to the Rotor Hub.(Again Gloves and Pot Holders.)
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#9
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brake rotor/ won't come off
hit it hard with a big hammer.
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#10
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I torched mine off.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#11
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give it a good whack with a heavy hammer instead of a torch
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
#12
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As a 15 year mechaninc, I've never encounted a "stuck" rotor. You just have not hit it hard enough yet. A 1lb hammer swung at arms legnth should have it loose in 3 whacks or less. That wheel bearing holds up one heavy car, you aren't gonna hurt it with a 1lb hammer, so swing that sucker like you mean it. Hit it square on the hub, trying at least to miss the dust cap and they'll be on the floor in no time.
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90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff |
#13
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Thanks guys. I found out what store to buy dry ice at but decided to give it a few more whacks first. I tried lightly heating the outer edge of the hub area, but I'm not sure it really helped so much as just swinging harder did, like you guys said. I think they key was finding the right angle to actually get a good swing. A few big, loud hits and off they came. My neighbors are probably glad that's done ... won't tell them I've still got the rears to do ...
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#14
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I have (on another make). It took me an hour of hammering on each side. The rotors broke in pieces before they came off. Like already mentioned, the moral of the story with a stuck rotor is to keep on hammering as hard as you can until something gives.
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K |
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