1991 300CE with 178m.

Last time I got new tires and an alignment, the shop said that I was at the end of the camber adjustment and that soon the alignment could no longer be adjusted correctly. He said that this was because of old springs that are no longer the correct height. After awhile the front tires began to wear on the outside edge.

Does this sound like a correct diagnosis? What is typically done then, some (younger) springs from a used parts place? My local parts guy has some new ones (Lesjofors brand) for about $65 each.

Thanks,

glenmore
1991 300CE
1999, 2000 C280
2000 C230K

Yes, spring sag is common on 10+ year old cars & can cause CAMBER adjustment issues.

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If you buy random springs, there is no guarantee that you will solve your ride height problems. Mercedes and specialists will identify the correct springs from your vehicle VIN, taking into account the specification.

A cheap opportunity in your case MIGHT be to get the spring support rubbers changed for thicker (if you don't already have the thickest) ones. These are available from MB.

It's not worth guessing unless you enjoy play around with springs.

Just my 2c worth.

Bon chance.

RayH

But but OEM Mercedes will be a lot more than $65 each! (whine)

Just took a look at the rubbers and they are 3 bump, 18mm. Would the 4 bump, 23mm buy some time or just put off the inevitable? I just put in a new tranny so gotta drive it at least 10 more years.

Outside edge wear? positive camber?

Maybe a failing ball joint.

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I changed the front springs on my 1991 300CE over the weekend.

To do this job properly, you need the correct spring compressor tool, the type with the two disks and center post. I did not have this tool and the job was frustrating and took much longer than it should have. There are 2 types available for rent at the local AutoZone. The exterior type with 2 rods and 4 hooks would not work because the hooks were too big to get in between the coils. The second type with a center post, 2 hooks and spatula shaped plate did not work either. After threading the 2 hooks thru the spring you cannot flip up the second hook to engage the coil. The inside diameter of the coil was too narrow. I tried manipulating the hooks every which way on a new spring but there was no way to get both hooks on. I made do with a set from O'Reillys that had 2 pairs of hooks and a center rod. The hooks were a little bit thinner but most importantly, the hooks were removable. So to get them to work , remove one of the hooks from each pair and reassemble them inside the coil. Certainly a waste of time but your second spring goes much faster.

Here is how I did it. May or may not be the best way to do it. Comments and suggestions welcomed. As usual, all precautions apply. Work carefully around the spring and under the car.

Take a look the edge of the old spring seat/pad. There are a series of bumps. So get the right replacement pad.

1 bump = 8mm, 2 bumps =13mm, 3 bumps =18mm, and 4 bumps =23mm.

Put front of car on jackstands. Remove front wheels.

Reassemble the tool inside the coil, engage not 7 to 8 coils but 8 to 9 coils. Have the top and bottom hooks roughly aligned with each other. Compress until the spring lifts off the lower arm. Up on top, using a combination of a deep offset 7/8" box wrench and an allen holding the shock rod, remove shock nut.

There is a little give left when you press down on the disk/brake/lower arm that may be enough to pull out the spring. I had a hook and rope on the lower part of the spring and pulled while stepping on the brake disk and the spring popped out. Release old spring. Compress new spring. Again at least 8 to 9 coils. Align the top and bottom hooks in a straight line as possible. If the new spring starts to compress unevenly, and the rod is cocked at an angle rather than straight thru the center of the spring, stop and start over. What you are shooting for is a relatively evenly compressed spring. When one side of the spring is bulging, it is that much harder to get it in. Clean seat of lower arm, note where the coil seats. Screw on new pad. Install spring. Make sure the spring is correctly positioned and jack up the lower arm until you can secure the shock rod. Again hold the rod with allen while tightening the nut (60nm/44 ftlbs). Release spring compressor and you are done.

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Using the (wrong) spring compressor in this fashion looks plain dangerous to me, but maybe I'm wrong. Thankfully you were not injured.

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1991 300E - 212K and rising fast...

What's wrong with this spring compressor?

Negative camber (the type you would get from sagging) would not cause wear on the outside edges of the tires, so I would have to question the diagnosis. That being said, how excessive is the negative camber? The printout should have the spec. Have you looked at the E90 M3 BMWs? They probably come with a similar amount of negative camber from the factory. Excessive negative camber alone will not cause uneven tire wear - improper toe will cause that more than anything. Just get the toe fixed, and if at some point the negative camber becomes slightly excessive, don't worry about it. I personally wouldn't spend $$$ on such an issue.

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