|
|
|
|
|
#18
11-13-2011, 03:13 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
i am now confused where the flare is.... have you tried a new k1 spring kit..... solved the problem in my e320
__________________
1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k  1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] 
|
|
#19
11-13-2011, 04:00 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
The confusion was mine: I guess it's second to third. There is one more shift to top gear, which is fine. I've been adjusting the Bowden cable a little at a time and it seems to be approaching the sweet spot. Will let you know if/when the problem is smoothed out. Thank you.
I'm also not sure that this shift issue is what I understand to be a flare: A revving, like between gears, during transition from one gear to the next. Mine is more like being stuck in gear...
|
|
#20
11-20-2011, 12:00 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Update
Haven't driven the car much this week but when I have, have made minor adjustments to the bowden cable. Seems to be getting better, now that I have turned the adjusting nut about four complete revs clockwise. The transmission upshifts pretty early compared to when the clutches were replaced. I do recall thinking that the shifts were more aggressive after the rebuild work was done, so maybe it's back close to where it should be.
Thanks to all for your suggestions: As usual, they eventually lead to resolution of the problem.
|
|
#21
12-22-2011, 06:10 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I'd like to post the resolution to the shifting issue. After much consternation and discussion I took the car to the dealer yesterday and spoke with the shop foreman. (By the way, I've found that if you talk to these guys respectfully and exhibit some anecdotal knowledge, they're usually more than willing to help/offer advice.) He pointed out that the Bowden cable has an indicator that tell you the proper adjusting point, which is basically two levers (some call them arrows) that line up when the cable is adjusted properly. He suggested loosening the cable more, but it was already more than loose. I realized that to bring the "levers" or arrows back in line I needed to tighten the cable quite a bit. That's CCW revolutions. The adjustment nut is showing lots of thread, and the arrows, or levers, are pretty much in line. Seems to be shifting properly. Wow. The indy wanted to replace my valve body for about $700.
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
