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vibration
Gentelman, I have just installed new rotors and pads on my Benz,(420 SEL 1989) I have noticed a strong vibration at and aabove 65 MPH when braking. The vibration is not evident at lower speeds. Could it have something to do with the anti-lok system, should I disconnect the battery and reset the on board computor ?? The front end shakes and vibrates very bad when stopping on the expressway (due to a traffic snarl) Here in Florida the roads are pretty good especially the interstates. Does any one have any suggestions? All components are NEW
Thanks for your help Tim |
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Tim,
Sounds like you have a warped rotor. Did you go with ATE? I have never had problems with ATE parts. It may be worth while to check rotors to confirm that they are "true" and reinstall....I know....a real PITA. |
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Did you check your brake support lines, clamps, and track rod bushings? How is your front suspension?
This is NOT caused by your anti-lock system. Satish |
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Ive been there done that. Have the rotors turned or replaced. I have had the same vibration on both of my 420's. Warped rotors will definitely cause problems at high speed often not noticable at low speeds.
Where did you get the new rotors?? Take them back.
__________________
I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave 78 Corvette Stingray - 3k 82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k 86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k 87 420sel - 240k 89 560sl - 78k 91 420sel - 205k 91 560sel - 85k 94 GMC Suburban - 90k 97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k 00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k |
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Forget turning them-once warped, it'll warp again. And you've lessened the amount of material the heat of braking can dissipate into, so don't go there-rotors are relatively cheap.
Did you clean the hub face before installing the rotors? I always clean the hub face with a wire brush attached to a drill, then coat it with a super-thin coat of hi-temp grease...makes future change-outs a breeze. Hope this works out for you-we ALL hate to do the same job twice!
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"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss Michael 2014 E63S Estate 2006 SLK55 1995 E500 1986 Porsche 944 turbo |
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Did this just start after the new parts were installed, or were the new parts installed to relieve the vibration?
If it just started when you had the work done, could it be that the wheel lug bolts are unevenly tightened, causing the rotors to warp? Take each wheel off, rotate it 2 or 3 bolt holes, reinstall, and carefully torque the lug bolts down equally. Cross your fingers and see what happens. If it helps, wait a couple days, then loosen and retorque the lug bolts again. If it doesn't help, the rotors are probably bad.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
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I want to respond to Michael and Palangi.
Mike, I have turned the rotors on both of my 420's and it cured the problem. Bingo first time every time. The rotors are not really warped they are just dont have even thickness. Turning them will make them have even thickness. And it works. Yes it does remove a small amount of material but if you look at the percentage removed it is less than 5%. You would not be able to measure the difference in performance aspecially at normal levels. Im not talking about stops from 150MPH. Obviously he put new rotors on the car and look at what he got. Palangi, as far at the lug nuts go I have observed the following to be true: The lug bolts on that car can no way exert any force on the rotors. The lug bolts are threaded into the hub for the bearings. The rotors are bolted onto that same hub with their own set of independant bolts. The rotor does not even touch the wheel in any way. So overtorquing the wheel bolts applies no additional force to the rotor. I have heard about over torquing lug bolts but I dont buy it, at least on this model. The idea that the torque on the lug bolts could warp the hub which in turn could warp the rotors at an impossibility in my opinion. Correct me if I am wrong. I frequently am. But I need good eviedince that makes a solid case.
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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave 78 Corvette Stingray - 3k 82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k 86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k 87 420sel - 240k 89 560sl - 78k 91 420sel - 205k 91 560sel - 85k 94 GMC Suburban - 90k 97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k 00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k |
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I say turn the rotors. I changed the rotors on my Nissan Quest, the G20, and my 93 300E. I used Brembo on the Nissan and the G20, and factory rotors on the MB.
I always take the new rotors to my local mechanic and have them turned before I install them. I learned this from my father, who was a mechanic for Unocal (corporately, not a gas station, worked on drag racing cars, etc.) but our experience has almost always been that rotors are not true out of the box, even when brand name. I've argued with people and mechanics about it. Sometimes they even get a little hostile with me and refuse to do it. You know, sacreligious turning new rotors. After seeing the rotors needed turning, they always apologize to me. Blows their mind. I don't know why they can't make rotors absolutely true from the factory. I just know they don't.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
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