They have check valves on them so it doesn't matter if you leave them.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Good, then it stays off. What size belt will I need then?

You have a spare motor just sitting there? I would consider two motor swaps to be a lot less work than rebuilding any part of one motor. These things come out in a jiffy when you take the transmission out at the same time.

If the spare motor doesn't cut it, you have the other motor out to work on and then you drop it back in.

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

Yes I have a spare motor, and I thought about just swaping them but I allready rebuilt the head and got it back from the shop. Now I just have to put it all back together.

I was also planning on putting the injectors from the spare motor (140,000 miles) because the other injectors have 205,000 miles on them. What do you guys think? Can I just swap them out?

I would replace the injectors at 140K unless you're really trying to save money

More pictures, head is back on!

Attached Thumbnails

         

Does anybody know what size belt I need without the air pump?

Here is a picture of what it looks like without the pump installed, belt is a 2365mm length I got at Autozone made in USA, so far so good about 7,000 miles later:

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

My M103 without air pump uses a 2415 belt (with A.C.)

There's probably a variety of belt sizes that will work in that range....2415 is only .5cm longer than a 2365.....the tensioner will compensate for those small differences. I went with the smallest that would fit readily. Mine does have A/C. The diameter of the idler pulley can make a difference too.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Thanks for the pictures, I got the intake bolted back up, all wires pluged back in and the exhaust bolted back up. It wont be long now.

Help me put the chain tensioner back together right, I have a manual for a 86 300E. It says to screw the threaded ring in and tighten to 30nm, then insert the thrust bolt with the detent spring, then mount compression spring and plug with seal ring, tighten to 50nm. It has to be different with my 90 190E because the thrust bolt will not go through the threaded ring, also I only have one spring? I put thrust bolt in first then the threaded ring and tighten to 30nm, then the spring and the plug and tighted to 50nm. Is that right?

I didn't realize it was so hard to do one of those headgaskets...looks like a job!

Its not too bad, just take your time and ask alot of questions.