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  #31  
Old 06-20-2014, 12:04 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 27
Thanks Emery,

I'm reasonably certain this is a non ASR car, but it definitely has a limp mode!

Would the code chart I have be wrong?
Is the Socket 7, Code 3 error actually indicating an ETA error, and not a failure of a separate Cruise control/idle speed control actuator?
I sliced the ETA harness open and inspected it, the wires are flexible and look pristine. This car came from the Japanese market so it's possible it's not subject to the normal rotting harness issue.

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  #32  
Old 06-20-2014, 12:18 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Arizona
Posts: 760
Maybe I misconstrued your description of "limp home." Usually what that means is that the electronic part of the ETA has failed and you are actually manually operating the throttle butterfly with the throttle cable. On cars with ASR, the EA function actually controls the butterfly with an electric motor on the side of the ETA. You are just moving a potentiometer with the cable and the computer decides whether and how much to actually open the butterfly. Here's a good example.

Mercedes M119 motor throttle body rebuild. Wiring replaced. - YouTube

Maybe your "limp home" was just a generic expression. Do you have an ASR light in the cockpit when you turn the key on?

In any case, DTC 3 under pin 7 points to the ETA, whether it is only a CC/ISC (non-ASR) or an EA/CC/ISC (ASR). The blink code reader you made is only good to read analog data, but there are a number of digital codes under that DTC that can be read with a more complex/expensive reader, like the Star diagnostic reader the dealer has. Many of us just try to determine if it's the original ETA. If it is, there's a good chance it's bad. If it's been replaced somewhere along the line (after 1996), then I would be reluctant to go out and buy an ETA.

The Japanese model could be an entirely different animal so I'm just going by what I know of the US cars.
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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles
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  #33  
Old 06-20-2014, 12:35 AM
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Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
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Many thanks!

ASR light - no.

Thanks for the video and additional info.

Is testing the ETA like demonstrated in the video a good procedure?
If that will give me a quick test of it working then I'll go outside and do it now.
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  #34  
Old 06-20-2014, 12:43 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Arizona
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The ETA in the video is for an ASR car (EA/CC/ISC). I've never tested an ETA without ASR (CC/ISC), so I really wouldn't know what to look for. I don't think you would see the movement of the butterfly with the stepper motor as is demonstrated in the video because that's part of the EA. On a positive note, non-ASR cars typically have less problems with the ETA, so maybe your ETA is okay.

You may want to try posting on *********.com. There are at least two MB techs of 30+ years that frequent the board and they might be able to impart some of their knowledge. In addition, even some of the non-MB tech members are awesome (GVZ. GSXR, etc.). Just don't say anything about using Uro parts.
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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles
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  #35  
Old 06-20-2014, 01:01 AM
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Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
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Thanks to the video you shared I realized I had checked the harness for the MAF and not for the ETA. Just went out and jiggled the ETA harness around and was "rewarded" with a bunch of clacking noises from the motor side of the ETA.

Back to an earlier comment of yours: "Have you checked the Delco 10A fuses in the module box? "

There are 4 fuse slots, but there's only 3 fuses present in mine? Is that correct or do I have a missing fuse?
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  #36  
Old 06-20-2014, 01:24 AM
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The fact that moving the ETA wiring harness around causes the ETA motor to activate leads me to believe it could be a bad ETA wiring harness or a bad connection where the ETA harness connects to the ETA circuit board inside the unit. This is exactly what happened on my old 400E. Like you, I discovered it by accident when I was trying to figure out why my CC didn't work and I leaned on the air cleaner and heard the ETA motor activate. I never did replace it because once I positioned the ETA harness to where the ETA motor was working, I never had any more problems with it.

As for the missing fuse, I have a 95 E420 without ASR. Let me go out and check it for you to see how many fuses there are.

UPDATE: Here's a picture of the module box for my 1995 E420 non-ASR. It has four fuses. I don't know how different your 92 Japanese model would be from this, but I would think that if it was running fine before on three fuses then a missing fuse is not your problem. Can you get the car to start by moving the ETA cable until you hear the ETA motor running?
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Help diagnosing idle issue with M119-1995e420-non-asr.jpg  
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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles

Last edited by emerydc8; 06-20-2014 at 01:39 AM.
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  #37  
Old 06-20-2014, 01:52 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Arizona
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If you determine that the ETA harness is the problem and you are good at soldering, you can order the 90-degree type ETA harness from Germany (at least you could back in 2007). It was part 140 540 15 81. I'm presuming your 92 has the 90-degree type harness connector.

Check out this post. O2 sensor electronics testing
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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles
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  #38  
Old 06-20-2014, 12:46 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
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Thanks for all the info and assistance.

Feeling like I've got stuff to try now, as opposed to just setting it on fire.

I'll post an update shortly.

Cheers,
Ian
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  #39  
Old 06-29-2014, 11:16 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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Hi Ian,

Have you made any progress with your problems? I am having similar issues myself with a 92 400E with ASR. Runs great when cold, but after driving around for a while and reaching 80C+, it does not want to start back up after being shut off. If I wait about 15-20 minutes, it will start back up and stumble along and eventually run a bit better, but still poor. Next morning, starts like a dream and then repeat.

In the past, I have replaced the engine harness, temp sensors, caps/rotors/plus/wires. To rectify my issue I have tried replacing the fuel pressure regulator, crank sensor, and now just sent out a spare throttle actuator I had to be rebuilt just in case.
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  #40  
Old 06-29-2014, 10:19 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 27
Hi Rrecce,

No progress yet.

The list of parts you've replaced seems to be common, and from what I've read, sometimes still doesn't resolve the issue. Makes me feel cautious about starting to throw money at this problem.

I'm currently debating between selling the car as is, or attempting an aftermarket ECU like a megasquirt.

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