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  #16  
Old 05-23-2012, 07:37 PM
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Another question... is there any risk when replacing the valve cover gasket that the valve cover won't fit back on correctly (e.g. might be warped or something)? I'm debating whether to do this myself of not... Seems pretty straight-forward!
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  #17  
Old 05-24-2012, 04:00 AM
RANDY P's Avatar
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No, not really. Just take your time. It's straightforward. Pay close attention to the vacuum lines under the cover, and what they connect to. SHould be two lines under there. inspect the little rubber connections and the lines themselves for any cracks and splits, replace if needed or questionable. Cheap insurance against problems down the road.

Check the one next to the fuel pressure regulator- it has a clear line going to it up front as well.

Be careful fiddling with the coils and harness up there, be gentle and if look closely at the wiring harness- If you start to notice the insulation is coming apart around the wiring- STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING, put car back together and figure out how to pay for a new wiring harness, otherwise prepare to be stranded.

If it looks intact and you don't see copper, once again, be gentle, unplug your coils neatly and think about getting new plugs and coil connectors now while you have everything apart. Cheap for all the parts at Pelicanparts.com. Those should be replaced as sets. Plugs get changed, connectors get changed. Misfires can occur if your coil connectors fail and they will.

just make sure everything is clean (brake cleaner works) before you bolt it together and don't get overzealous with tightening. Nice and snug, that's it.

PS- make sure the lines, and plug wires run neatly in the little valley in the Valve Cover and stay there. When you tighten the lid (allen bolts) on the top cover sometimes a plug wire or those 2 vacuum lines will get pinched between the coil and the cover if you don't have them routed neatly. The top cover should fit neatly without any fighting.

Pay close attention to that.
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  #18  
Old 05-24-2012, 02:26 PM
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Thanks, very helpful tips. I'll take photos along the way of the cables especially so I remember how they go back in.

Do I use brake cleaner to clean the part where the new gasket will join against the metal?
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  #19  
Old 05-24-2012, 03:08 PM
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If it's necessary, ya do it. It shouldn't be bad at all, just a quick spray and wipe. same with the valve cover side to ensure it's clean.

Do watch the wiring harness- if you see signs of it cracking like I said, stop, turn around and run away for another day.

PS on the plugs, if you do them,make sure you get non resistor plugs. They probably won't be found at the local auto parts store- if you ask the parts guy their book will tell you that Resistor plugs are OK.

Resistor plugs are NOT OK.

rjp
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81 280E (W123)
70 LeMans Sport with pissed off Poncho 462"
1989 Silverado Step Side (under the knife- complete restomod)
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  #20  
Old 05-24-2012, 04:28 PM
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Location: Baton Rouge La
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Have owned 6 124's. Resistor plugs are ok.... copper core
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1989 300ce 129k
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1994 e320 Cabriolet 98k (finally)



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


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  #21  
Old 05-27-2012, 07:49 AM
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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well i sure will be following this thread closely.. did you do the tensioner shock by yourself? mines was doing the same thing, but i pulled it out the idiot way, easy way is, pull the damned coolant pulley out, and pull the ps pulley out after you loosen the belt, what i did is just take the shock out by feel, and to put it back on i might have to get a new tensioner :|
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  #22  
Old 06-11-2012, 10:45 AM
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Update on my cooling issue...

Quote:
Engine runs warms (around 100 to 105) in stop and go traffic, in warm weather. It runs normal (85) when there is better airflow to the engine (e.g. going 50+ km/h). The thermostat, fan clutch and radiator have been replaced within the last year (thermostat for this same issue, fan clutch because the old one was a bit worn and the radiator for a different issue). The aux cooling fans come on as they're supposed to (around 107 I think).
Airflow through the radiator was a key issue. I cleaned out inbetween the condenser and the radiator and the engine temperature maxed out at just over 100C, maybe 101 or 102C (a/c on, stop & go city driving, 88F ambient temp). Before the cleaning, in similar conditions, it would go over 105C and drop back down after the high-speed aux fans came on.

I also tested that the low-speed aux fans come on with the A/C, which they do.

However, 100C still sounds like it's hot even in those conditions so I'm thinking of doing a coolant flush to eliminate the possibility of bad coolant mixture, air pockets, etc. Any other suggestions welcome!
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  #23  
Old 06-11-2012, 12:44 PM
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100C is only 212F. I believe the maximum is 240F so you have a long ways to go. My last 3 124's ran around 100C. If that makes you nervous, contact Jim F on his website. He offers 2-3 different resistors that lowers the "turn on" temp of the aux fans. He built a special for me and my fans are on most of the time in the summer but the temp never exceeds 90C. We have a local shop that will rebuild this electric motor very reasonable so I have no fear of wearing one out. Last summer i had to take a friend to a funeral in Parker City, about 100 miles from here. It was 115F and I drove at a steady 85mph. The temp stayed at 110C. Pretty damn good for a car not designed for super hot temps.
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'93 320CE 205K
'95 E420 125K
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