M103 front crank seal install - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dka-66 · #1 07-08-2012, 06:09 AM

I have to replace the crank damper on my 1989 300TE and one of the things mentioned is to replace the front crank damper....I have done some searches and it looks like I do not need to remove the cover and I do not need the pressing tool that is mentioned but I cannot find anything more specific than this. Can someone go over the procedure for me so I do not have to track down one of these tools?

duxthe1 · #2 07-08-2012, 02:07 PM

Pry the old seal out, careful not to damage the cover. Position the new seal and use a small ball peen hammer tapping lightly around the perimeter to seat it flush to the cover. Apply some lube to the inner sealing surface of the seal before reassembly.

nulu · #3 07-08-2012, 02:19 PM

You need to hold flywheel to get the large bolt that holds pully off,27mm, they make a special tool for that, then you can remove bolts to vibration dampner, then two large screwdrivers can hopefully pry small flang off of front of crank, if not they make a tool for that too, then pry out seal, tap in new seal flush, reassemble

Hit Man X · #4 07-10-2012, 11:04 AM

The tool to lock the crankshaft is about $40 last I checked. There really is no other way to lock it in order to remove the crank bolt.

Torque is quite high, over 300lbft... so tightening will be a chore.

I hacked up a plastic cup like you would find at a picnic to ease installation of the front main.

Also, no easier time than then to verify you have no other oil leaks. Oil pressure senders do leak on these. Oil level senders do also. Oil pan crush washers.

dka-66 · #5 07-20-2012, 11:13 PM

I got it done but I have one more question.

duxthe1 said this, my question is about the part in bold print.

Quote:

Originally Posted by duxthe1

Pry the old seal out, careful not to damage the cover. Position the new seal and use a small ball peen hammer tapping lightly around the perimeter to seat it flush to the cover. Apply some lube to the inner sealing surface of the seal before reassembly.

NULU also mentioned this in his post "tap in new seal flush"

I am thinking that it might be real important so I want to get some opinions on this.......I was tapping the seal in with a small ball peen hammer but the bottom of the seal is tapped in a little bit beyond flush.

Should I not worry about it and continue with assembly or should I pull the seal and put a new one?

duxthe1 · #6 07-20-2012, 11:50 PM

I'd try to even it out, though but its no big deal if it isn't perfectly flush. As long as its solid in the cover, its good. Its actually good to try to align it slightly differently than the original to get a fresh spot on the shaft to seal against instead of riding in the old groove.

ps2cho · #7 07-21-2012, 12:25 AM

If you damaged the sump gasket, use the MB sealant you are (or should be using BOLDED for EMPHASIS!!!!) on the sump. Remove any old gasket and liberally apply the black sealant liberally in liberal amounts.

Check out my thread here if desired:
M103 timing cover reseal + chain guides

Take opportunity to check/replace chain guides and PLEASE check fan clutch bearing bracket for any wobble. Member over at benzworld just had his shear off. ANY wobble with the fan running and it MUST be replaced.

Dont forget the tiny little o-ring on the front cover