Guys,

I have an OM603 out of an '87 300sdl that I want to use in a generator set. What will I need to make this engine run as a stand alone power unit? I thought the engine was mechanical, but I found what looks like a mass airflow sensor, a magnetic sensor on the flywheel, etc.; makes me think the engine has some sort of electronic control. I saved everything I thought was related to the engine, including ALL the vacuum controls.

Thanks!
Any input would be welcome as this is my first foray into the MB world.

Tommy

Tommy,

You might wanna check out this link here:
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/ETM/126from86.pdf

I believe the om60x series engines used the EDS (electronic diesel system) so you might need bits of that to make it work.. Or to fool it somehow.

Its got all the wiring diagrams..

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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

Tommy, to the best of my knowledge the only electronics are idle speed and EGR. Idle speed can be set manually which I would think would be fine for a gen/set. The EGR is totally unnecessary for a gen/set. The sensor on the flywheel is for rpm sensing for the tach and the idle speed. Glow plug control would be needed which could be manual or use the glow plug controller from the car (or junk yard car). Of course you would need some way to charge the starting battery and a starter. Once the engine is running all it needs is fuel. There are no detached fuel pumps so all you need is a fuel tank, supply line and return line. Basicly, it is a self contained power unit. I forgot, you will need a cooling system which is very basic since you don't have a HVAC system.
Hope this helps and good luck,
Paul

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

That helps a lot! When I had the engine in the car, I revved it up a bit, it would stay there a few seconds, and then return to idle with no change in throttle position. I think that was the electronic idle taking over.
Also, how do I handle the ALDA valve? I understand it feeds more fuel when the engine is under boost...
Thanks again for the help!
Tommy

one pressure line (vacuum hose) from the ALDA to the intake. There is an overboost system on the cars but you shouldn't need to worry about that either. The injection pump has a governor in it that will keep everything under control. About the only thing that can go wrong is a turbo seal putting oil in the intake which could cause the engine to 'run away' . I just saw that happen on a road tractor. Blew the engine up but no one was hurt.
Paul

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

I just thought about something. I don't know how but if some one knew how to adjust the governor in the injection pump you could set it to the RPM needed for the gen/set and it would be ready to go. No external governors needed. Just set the throttle to WOT when working and idle for start up and shut down.
Paul

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

i'm thinking about using my OM617 for the same setup. from what i've been reading the generator heads (20KW up) run at 1800 rpm so you could ditch the turbo (just have to fab a line up for the oil supply to/from the turbo). what kind of generator head are you planning on using?

Mercedes powered 24KW ST generator head - YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TX-hwQhaUQQ&feature=plcp

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Satan creates nothing: he only ruins everything. He does not invent: he tampers. And his followers are no different ~ Archbishop Carlo Maria Vigaṇ

yeah, that's what i'm talking about; i would run it on a belt driven head for simplicity though

I'm planning to use a 24kw Chinese generator; one of those cheapo 1800rpm ST jobs. I'm going to belt drive it and I'll run the engine 22-2300rpm.

I saw the OM617 genset on youtube...that's what got me to thinking about the Merc for my genset. I had been powering the set with a Listeroid, so I'm going from one quality extreme to the other!

Guys, I have a question,, what is the that device behind the IP? It has several linkages connected to it, including a switch I believe is for the automatic transmission kick down...
Can I eliminate this device? Afterall, its for a genset...

/Users/TommyFrantz/Desktop/IMG_0157.JPG

How do I post a photo?

use photobucket to host the images or upload them directly to the forum(preferred)

The switch is for the climate system, it cuts off the AC compressor. The electronic controls on the 603 are only for emissions and idle speed. If you dump those two systems it will run totally mechanically, with a 500 RPM idle (which can be mechanically adjusted in the pump).

-J

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

The cruise control actuator sits behind the IP. Aside from it's own mechanisms it 'collects' the throttle input from the cabin and relays a throttle signal to the transmission. You can remove it all and you'll be left with a bell crank on the inboard side of the IP.

Don't worry about the ALDA. In fact, you might as well remove it if you'll be running a constant load.

There's a base idle adjustment that can be set higher than the 500 rpm or so used with EDS. This is separate from the electric trim setting EDS uses to set idle speed.

If you don't need the engine driven vacuum pump, gut it and use the pump housing as a cover. Old style vacuum pumps can fail over time and cause catastrophic engine damage. If you have a later style pump, sell it for profit and get an old style pump to use as a cover. Undo the crimps holding the pump front cover and seal the heck out of the cover. Oil can leak from the cover as the o-ring between the cover and pump body hardens with age.

Sixto
87 300D