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  #1  
Old 08-17-2012, 01:28 PM
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722.3XX B3 friction disk removal

92" CE 722.359. In the next mo. or so dropping trans for pump reseal and B3 friction disks. ? of the day, in order to remove K1 clutch pack to access B3 disks does the B1 piston need to be removed? Thanks for any comments/advice.

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  #2  
Old 08-17-2012, 02:23 PM
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Get yourself an ATSG 722.3 manual.
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  #3  
Old 08-17-2012, 03:14 PM
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Great response! I've got a manual but it doesn't ans my ?.
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:05 PM
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To the best of my knowledge to get to the clutch packs you need to remove the gearset and so you need to remove the brake band pistons and the brake bands. I base this information on my knowledge of the 722.1 transmission - I haven't taken my 722.3 to bits yet but I've got a feeling it needs to be done the same way.

Have a look through the manual.

Whilst it might be possible to remove the first clutch pack insitu (is that the K1? Probably - I can't remember...) you need to be careful with this sort of thing 'cos you have to make sure that the clearance of the gearset (distances between certain components) is correct otherwise you'll end up with bearing / wear problems. To do these measurements on the 722.1 the gearset has to be removed - I'm not sure about the 722.3 => again I'm sorry to say it is probably best to read the manual...

...if you go for a partial removal of the gearset make sure you don't damage the brake bands. They are very expensive (for what they are) to replace. They're coated with a paper based material.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



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  #5  
Old 08-17-2012, 10:05 PM
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B1 must be removed. B2 can stay in place if all you want to do is replace the B3 discs. When I did this job (3 times now--I have 3 124's with the 722.3xx) I replaced all of the seals and that included the B2 seals.... If I remember correctly, when I ordered the new style B2 seals, one of them was not available in the US and had to come from Germany.

J. M. van Swaay
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:17 AM
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J. M. van Swaay. Your reply much appreciated, I have been brain storming different ways to retract and then reinsert the B1 without the special tool, I'll come up with something that will work, more importantly during the install getting the B1 properly aligned. What did you use? Is the spring really that strong? Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:22 AM
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I just used two screwdrivers to press it in and had a helper remove the lock ring. Without a helper it would be impossible obviously.
Make sure you get the seal the right way around for inner pump and use non-hardening sealant on the pump bolts.

Some photo's here:
http://w124-zone.com/articles.php?article_id=21
follow the manuals, use both in unison side-by-side.
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/photos/300TE/remove_tranny/tranny_722_repair.pdf
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/photos/300TE/remove_tranny/transmission%20repair.pdf
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Old 08-18-2012, 03:53 AM
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Message to the people who have done the job before!

After removing the old clutch pack and replacing it with new friction material did any of you check the gearset clearance?

I'm interested to know if it is possible to measure this when the rest of the transmission is insitu.

I'm not interested in starting a "you should have done this - now you will all die young" conversation I'd just like to know if it was considered or not; or if it was checked or not. Thanks!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
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1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #9  
Old 08-18-2012, 05:34 AM
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ps2cho, I've read all your posts and have seen all your pics but you never mentioned having to remove the B1 piston IOT remove the K1 drum. What I did see in your pic was the plastic B1 bracket still setting in the case that's why I was questioning whether the B1 piston needed to be removed or not. Thanks.
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  #10  
Old 08-18-2012, 05:42 AM
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Army, good valid ?, I don't know what others have done as it has never been mentioned in their posts but even though I don't have my own depth mic I have a good machinist 6" rule and a straight edge that I should get a pretty close reading as to the required clearance, but IOT do so trans must be in the vert position.
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  #11  
Old 08-18-2012, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i6h000 View Post
Army, good valid ?, I don't know what others have done as it has never been mentioned in their posts but even though I don't have my own depth mic I have a good machinist 6" rule and a straight edge that I should get a pretty close reading as to the required clearance, but IOT do so trans must be in the vert position.
This morning I got some time off for good behaviour so I took my spare 722.303 to bits. I see how it works now - thanks.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #12  
Old 08-18-2012, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i6h000 View Post
What did you use? Is the spring really that strong?

See picture.....

B3 clutch pack thickness can be measured without any further disassembly. FSM describes how to make this measurement. If I remember correctly, the fix for an off spec condition is to use varying thicknesses of the steel discs. I'm not sure, but I think this might be more applicable the first time a given tranny is assembled or if any of the steel discs are replaced--if the steel discs were correct when the tranny was initially built, and they are not replaced, they should be correct again with new friction discs....

I'm just a DIY wrench, maybe a real tansmission expert can confirm this.....
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Last edited by J. M. van Swaay; 08-18-2012 at 07:05 PM.
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  #13  
Old 08-18-2012, 06:55 PM
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Oops, forgot picture. It's in post 12 of this thread:

94 E320 transmission rebuild
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  #14  
Old 08-19-2012, 11:49 AM
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I've also got some pictures to share of my 722.303 - I'm adding them to this thread

722.303 in bits photo shoot

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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