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  #16  
Old 07-10-2002, 11:17 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Baton Rouge
Posts: 485
I dont know the company name , all I know and advise I can give you from experience is if it doesnt have the star I wont use it on tensioners. I just gave my opinion based on experience . If you feel good using non mb part on something like this , I just hope it doesnt fail.Good luck and remember to not let the chain jump while rolling in.

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euro 287
Mercedes Technician 7 Years (retired to Hyundai)
2000 Dodge Durango
98 Mazda truck
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  #17  
Old 09-29-2002, 08:23 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: West Bloomfield, Michigan
Posts: 203
I really disagree about the interval about the time for the timing chain change on the 119. The problem is that the chain is NOT the problem. It is the upper guides. My 119 motor (119.960) was only 5 degrees BTDC off before the change, yet both upper rails were disintegrated to hell, the chain under the left intake bank was riding on the slide pin! Therefore, engine timing alone can't tell one squat on the DOHC motors in my opinion.

I would pull valve covers and examine the upper slide rails. 100K-120K is the time for the chain, rails, and tensioner. Note the post on using only a factory tensioner for the job. BTW, the new tensioners no longer have an oil check feed on it. It's completely blocked off from the factory! Therefore, the tensioner is always under tension and thus, so is the slide rail and the chain. Great idea. Too bad it took 5 revisions before they got it right. Insist on new stock chain and tensioner when replacing them. The latest chain has a different lock on it as well.

-Satish
1989 560SEC - with engine M119.960 5.0L/32V DOHC

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