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  #1  
Old 03-08-2002, 11:15 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Charleston, SC
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300TE Hatch strut replacement

Replacing the hatch struts on the TE this weekend. I have read all the previous posts and info. on this job. Any last minute advice on tools/procedures would be welcome.

Thanks,

Ed

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  #2  
Old 11-17-2004, 08:50 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: COASATAL NORTH CAROLINA
Posts: 51
Hatch strut replacement

I need to replace the struts on our '93 300TE. I have had the panels out to get to the struts but can't see how to remove the forward bolt that holds the strut. Can you give me some guidance?? Thanks Srharvey
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Old 11-17-2004, 10:10 PM
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Location: Champaign, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRHARVEY
I need to replace the struts on our '93 300TE. I have had the panels out to get to the struts but can't see how to remove the forward bolt that holds the strut. Can you give me some guidance?? Thanks Srharvey
If it's anything like the 123 wagons, the bolt is visible through a hole in the headliner put there at the factory. This can be seen only after that rear valance thing has been removed--the cover for the speakers and so forth.

Joe B.
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Old 11-18-2004, 01:20 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Charleston, SC
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I had the same trouble at first but then realized that moving the hatch up and down slightly takes the tension off the bolt(s) and it slides right out. Below is the write up I followed. The job was about 1.5 hrs for the first side and 30 min the second side. Good luck.

Tailgate Strut R/R


It is a fairly easy job. Remove the trim around the tailgate opening. Remove the "header" at the back of the headliner (it has two tabs that slide into slots in the overhead). Pull out the plastic pins that anchor the headliner to the overhead. You should now be able to see the forward pivot pins. Bend back the locking tabs. Support the tailgate. The clips at the hinge end can be removed now and the pivots on both ends of the shock removed. Slide out the shock and reverse the process. I bought a used pair at a wrecking yard and was able to remove them in about ten minutes with a borrowed pair of cheapy pliers. Just look everything over carefully as you proceed and it should be clear on how the proceed.


Well I received my 124 manual library and shocks on the same day so I preceded to complete the job! The manual really did not help much at all except for one point. The "special tool" is a coat hanger rounded to hold the hinge bolt and was a great help I am going to put together a FAQ for my contribution to this great site E-mail me if you have any questions in the meantime and I will give you my phone number and talk you through it. I did not take pictures so if anybody else embarks on this, that contribution would be great. I will give a few quick pointers.

1. when taking the trim off, the vertical piece with the light slides down for removal. There is a tab that goes under the window molding, don't worry its easy to get it back under there.

2. Once you got that the headliner pulls straight back just be sure to remove all the screws it has two screws at the forward end that can be overlooked.

3. Now this is where is can get freaky the soft vinyl has two pegs and remove them. THEN on the side there are little clips on the side get close to them and gently release them. I think there were 2.

4. you will see a square bolt with a locking tab, use needle nose pliers and bend them back then pull the bolt out. You have to move the tailgate up to take the tension off them so they will slide out. What I did because I was by myself is rigged a bungee cord to the ceiling (garage door track) of my garage and that way it took very little effort for one person to move it up and down. I put a backup piece of rope on it in case the bungee broke because that thing will break your legs. The clips at the hinge side remove fairly easily you can spin them using a hooked coat hanger to reach the tab to grab them with Hemo's.

5. Pull the shock out from the back side the headliner bow will flip down and you can pull them right out.

6. before inserting the new shocks make sure both ends are lined up to make inserting the bolts much easier put them in and attach the hinge end first. Using a hooked coat hanger the hold the bolt you can weasel your finger around the wire boot to push it through. There is a small egg shaped hole that you can move the shock around with the other hand to move it in to position. Now don't get discouraged the first bolt took me 15 minutes to fit and the other too 30 seconds IT CAN BE DONE. Once it is half way through pull the coat hanger with pliers and it will come unwrapped from the bolt. Then use Hemo's to replace the retaining clip. Put the end bolt in while moving the tailgate BY NOW YOU WILL BE LOVING THE BUNGEES.

7. My shock boots did not fit my new shocks perfectly so I used nylon wire ties to secure them.
8. Before putting it all back together check the wire harness in the roof to make sure you did not knock anything loose removing the shocks.
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  #5  
Old 11-18-2004, 02:54 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: COASATAL NORTH CAROLINA
Posts: 51
Hatch strut replacement

Thanks for your help, guys, I'll take the head liner down and make "dry run" to get more comfortable with those "bolt ectomies". If all goes well I'll get some struts on order. I'll try to take some pix on the way through to help the next fellow. This is a great web site. srharvey

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