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#1
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Since the valve is capable of working, it would sort of point to the controller in the dash.
Interior temp sensor; maybe. Those seem to last the life of the car though, not much can go wrong with them.
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#2
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I re soldered my HVAC controls. No change. I did not have time to pull the plug on the mono valve since installing a new one. I need to try that.
I re-soldered the HVAC controls beacause a few days ago I had a hard fault on the controls. The air recirculation switch was steadily flashing and I had no control over the system. Not even able to turn it off. But get this, I had plenty of hot heat coming out. Odd, huh? So thats why I need to try pulling the valve next. But so far a new t-stat, new valve and re-soldering the controls has not helped. All vacuum lines look good. Idle is normal. I just need to keep tinkering when I have time, which is little.
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles 1992 750il / 17k miles - project car |
#3
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Just to say the obvious, ( somebody has to) Is the coolant level full?
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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags ![]() |
#4
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Yup. Burped, purged, etc. And its newer coolant. And even more new added when I replaced the t-stat in an attempt to resolve this. G-05 stuff.
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles 1992 750il / 17k miles - project car |
#5
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Remember the emergency default (ie NO power to the valve) is full heat.
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#6
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Right. So since it went default and I got tons of heat, be at low speed, I should have full heat with it unplugged. if I do, its one more part of the puzzle.
edit: before, I did not get any heat unplugged.
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles 1992 750il / 17k miles - project car |
#7
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Pretty sure the switch is part of the alarm system.
I have full egg-cooking heat though at low speeds. And when the system went into default on the highway I had full heat at low speed (when default, low speed fan is only option). I am going to pull the plug on it tonight now that I am home early. I will see how the heat works over the next couple of days.
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles 1992 750il / 17k miles - project car |
#8
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Disconnected the new mono valve and have tons of uncontrollable heat. Figures. That rules out air pockets, etc.
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles 1992 750il / 17k miles - project car |
#9
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Quote:
i am having the same problems.... did you repair your monovalve with the MTC repair kit or did you buy and OEM monovalve...? |
#10
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I did not find the issue for certain yet. I did replace the parts with MTC. No change. So I took it apart again. This time I baked the solenoid on the over.
What I found is that the valve was leaking a bit. I think this flooded the solenoid. From what I can see, the solenoid was causing some electrolysis of the coolant by being exposed to it!!! Anyway, after expensive cleaning and "drying out" I now have 100% heat at all times. Given that winter is here, I am okay with that for now. But when I have time I plan to remove the solenoid again and see how it moves when I adjust the temp. The plunger should move in and out. Voltage at the connector is fine and working with controls. If I had a spare solenoid, I would just swap it out to test.
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles 1992 750il / 17k miles - project car |
#11
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Does anyone here know if a monovalve from a w124 will work on the w126? They physically appear different but maybe an updated version as 124 is a 94 and 126 is a 90. I have a spare from the 124 and I think my 126 needs one.
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1987 300 TDT 1990 300 SEL |
#12
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I have a 91 560SEL and when I got it 6 years ago the monovalve was bad, replaced it and haven't had a problem until recently. Same issue, around town heat works GREAT, once on hwy it turns off. Just bought a genuine MB monovalve today from Pelican Parts, I've learned the hard way that when it comes to important stuff like heat or engine gaskets I always go genuine; cosmetic stuff I buy aftermarket - and am still disappointed by the low quality.
Sounds like your issue is still the MV. |
#13
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Ya I am sure it is the M valve. I bought the "kit" from aftermarket and it will not fit in the electromagnet (waaay too tight) so I removed the circlips and swapped out the other parts. Put it in and had heat! till I got to highway
![]() Anyway now not sure what to do with it. Need heat I live in Nova Scotia. Not sure why it wont work now tho, It really should I think.
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1987 300 TDT 1990 300 SEL |
#14
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Does your engine temp stay constant? Next just disconnect the valve. With it disconnected you should have full heat at all times.
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles 1992 750il / 17k miles - project car |
#15
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Temp is a constant 80. I will try unplugging the darn thing and see what's up. If I get out and squeeze the heater hoses I can get heat.
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1987 300 TDT 1990 300 SEL Last edited by C Holmes; 11-15-2013 at 06:18 AM. |
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