w140 ignition switch R + R. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

oldsinner111 · #1 02-17-2013, 07:18 AM

I you have a S Class w140,some E class of same period. Your switch might give you signs of wearing,starts fine,only to come back and won't start.Or holding key at starting posistion longer than a minute,then starts.
When ignition acts up turn key to run,reach down to starter with a tool,and provide connection to both teminals on the soleniod.If engine starts its your switch.
Removal of just switch,tools needed two small allen wrenches,philps screwdriver, and 10mm wrench. Remoe panel under steering wheel,lower steering wheel to the bottom.US vehicles on the right top of panel,grab and pull down.Close to E Brake area you will see a screw,remove.Panel will come down.On the floor you will see a bracket hold the bottom with screw remove,unplug connection on panel.Maybe a screw at top right panel.
Now lay on your back under switch,switch is inside of metal cylinder to remove plug press square button on top cylinder and remove plug.Next undo metal cap at rear containing streering lock,making sure key is at posistion one.Next cylinder has two buttons on each side depress with allens,as you pull cylinder back.Pull out switch,and discard ,insert new one.reverse every thing you did,making sure key is in posistion one.put the nut back on the steering lock with 10 mm wrench.
Now no more towing bills.
One Note of advice once steering lock is out you may turn key to line up new switch. Two I removed instruments for more light,Three do diconnect battery.
I hope this helps someone Tennessee Nate

oldsinner111 · #2 02-17-2013, 07:54 AM

One other note replacement part calls for a 14 pin switch even though stock one has a different number of pins.

The Runaway Files a book,by Tennessee Nate

oldsinner111 · #3 02-17-2013, 12:35 PM

please sticky,as I had a hard time finding out to do this.

Gilly · #4 02-17-2013, 04:21 PM

I know the bolt you are talking about, I don't remember having to remove that to pull the switch, Unless it was to get the whole assembly to rotate to remove the switch? Anyways I don't remember a cap/bolt that held the switch in. Did you take pictures?

That bolt is the one with the weird "keyhole-looking" head, right???

I could always get those 2 plastic pins to press in one at a time. I pressed in one, while holding a little pressure on the switch (away from the lock assembly) and it would usually stay in long enough for me to press the other one in and it would come out, better than try to press in both at once while trying to push the switch out with your 3rd hand.

oldsinner111 · #5 02-18-2013, 04:09 AM

i will correct,can't take pictures,I shake because medication now.

oldsinner111 · #6 02-26-2013, 08:12 AM

hey Doc help. New starter,new ignition switch,still once in a while I need to hold switch for a second to start.
Must be immoblelizer ? How do I disable immoblelizer.Nobody wants to steal a 99

Zulfiqar · #7 02-26-2013, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldsinner111

hey Doc help. New starter,new ignition switch,still once in a while I need to hold switch for a second to start.
Must be immoblelizer ? How do I disable immoblelizer.Nobody wants to steal a 99

check the NSS - and test the circuit with something like a headlamp, it needs good amps to pull in the solenoid.

oldsinner111 · #8 02-26-2013, 12:12 PM

don't know what that means.New starter,new battery,new ignition switch.Battery a week old,all grounds clean,plus 2 added for my nitrous

Zulfiqar · #9 02-26-2013, 12:56 PM

oh im sorry for not expanding that acronym.

The neutral start switch is on the transmission and completes the 12V line to the starter motor from the ignition switch only when the trans is in P or N.

It does go bad/get dirty etc and causes startup problems like you mention.

oldsinner111 · #10 02-26-2013, 01:29 PM

ok will check out somehow, or buy new one