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#1
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W124 Universal Bosch Oxygen Sensor + Female connector
Hey guys,
I got the Bosch 13942 sensor (shorter wire version of the 13953). I did some searching and found that someone said that O'Reilly part # PT5690 works with the sensor for the female side but after getting it home, it does not. Basically I want to put the female connector so it will be plug and play each time instead of soldering over and over. Anybody know what connector I need to accomplish this?
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#2
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O2sensor splicing
I have just used the connector from the old sensor and left the one in the car alone. I use crimp connectors to put it together. I read on the Bosch site not to solder because the sensor gets reference atmosphere down one or more of the wires and soldering can impede this. Do the connections in the length of wire inside the car so they are protected from the elements
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#3
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Why not just get the original type bosch sensor?
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Streetside: 1987 Mercedes 300E Petrol Blue/Green 2014 Ford Mustang Grabber Blue 1999 Ford Ranger Green Dockside: 1968 Eltro 17 1985 Silverton 34C |
#4
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'Cause he's, ahem, "frugal".
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#5
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Why spend $150 when you can spend $40? It has nothing to do with being frugal as much as having an option to put the other $100 into other parts of the car needing attention and there always will be with a 25 year old car.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#6
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With the universal just be sure to use the correct crimping tool.
I tried to get by just smashing the connection with a pair of pliers but using a crimping tool makes a solid connection. |
#7
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I've been down the road of attempting to swap out similar part numbers for original part numbers. IMHO, there is a reason why the original part number/part is specified. Pretty much every time I have tried going the "frugal" route, I get my a** handed to me.
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#8
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I've done this personally twice now as have others with success. This thread is purely about making a more permanent plug and play version only.
__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#9
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After the O2 sensor is changed out and the tuneup has been done. I did spark plugs, wires, dist and router. All that you mentioned has been done.
All the vacuum lines I could fine loose. Including taking off the air cleaner. After changing a few the ones leaking got louder. I ran out of temp tag solutions so I went down and bought a quart of rubbing alcohol and dumped it into a quarter tank of gas. I drove at least 20 miles and sat in line for another 30 min. I passed with flying colors. Next year I will see if it is the fix or not. I only had two of the three failing when I went thru. I have what I did on my 89 300sel 194000 miles. |
#10
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German cars tend to be different than their American counterparts. Back when I was into Chrysler, Ford and Chevrolet, it was easy to throw an aftermarket part on the car and save a few $$$$.
One thing I've learned rather rapidly in the world of German automobiles is this: They don't like you screwing up by installing non-standard parts. Mercedes Benz has a master design plan which involves the utilization of part number specific OEM parts. Unfortunately, they can't stop you or anyone from approaching the car like a it was a Chevrolet by mixing and matching parts and components. When it comes time to either sell or trade in a Mercedes, a thorough mechanical exam will reveal the owner's mix and match parts philosophy which may result in a lower resale or trade in value. |
#11
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In answer to ps2cho's original question, the plug you need can be found on Ford cars, trucks, and vans from 1986 to 2013. RJM injection tech back in Michigan sells the pigtail for $16, or most any Ford dealer.
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