1997 E300D (210.020), 175K miles - original switchblade style key FOB broke but when taped together remains fully functional.

Recently ordered replacement key from M-B dealer, to find that...

a) the new mechanical key blade is fully functional in the trunk lock.

b) the IR remote activation of the central locking system is also fully functional - the CL system opens and closes on command; red and green lights are functional on the rear view mirror housing.

c) the new blade will not turn past position "0" when inserted in ignition switch,

d) attempting to synchronize the new key (depressing the IR transmitter button twice, with the transmitter window facing the IRCL receiver and then turning the key on the steering lock to position "2" within 30 seconds) cannot be accomplished... the steering lock simply won't budge when using the new key.



The ignition switch turns freely and the engine starts readily with the old key but the ignition switch cannot be turned at all when using the new key, even thought its IR is recognized by the CL system.

No fault codes are present and the vehicle is asymptomatic otherwise.

Impressions? Faulty key from M-B? Hardware fault on vehicle?

Thanks.

The problem with turning the key in the ignition has nothing to do with the electronics, it is just a mechanical problem with the key blade. Either take it back or if I remember correctly you can remove a small roll pin and the old blade will come out of the old fob, you could then transfer it to the new fob.

BTW I have seen others capitalize "fob" like it is an abbreviation, what's up with that?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FOB_(shipping)
Keychain - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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Take a look on the new key for any burrs, I had the same symptom and it took some cleaning and cycling the key in / out / try to turn a few times. ( be sure to flip the key over to test the other side. ) At no time did I exert severe pressure to get things to turn, but it did take a slight added effort to make it turn the first time.

the ignition switch is used much more than truck lock so the tumblers may wear
at a different rate. i'm theorizing that the ignition and driver's side lock will wear
about the same, followed by pax door and trunk

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47º 34'N 122º 18'W

The tumbler is likely the fault with this mileage. My switch blade FOB key wouldn't turn the tumbler without a lot of finesse and effort. Got a new flat key and the tumbler worked well for about two weeks, but the same problem started and the tumbler wouldn't turn w/o a lot of effort.

Took the tumbler and switch out from the bottom as I wanted to get a good look at the switch and all the connecting parts. The problem was the tumbler and you could see that the fins didn't drop down all the way into the cylinder to allow the tumbler to turn, when you inserted the key.

If you can get the mercedes tool to take off the black ring, then the tumbler will come out and you can put a new one in from the front. If you are handy and have the time, you can take it out from the bottom. I posted my experience on this before and there is a picture tutorial. Or you can pay the pros/stealers to do it for you with their Mercedes tool. They should be able to easly do it in 20 minutes or less.

I hope this helps,

Pabster