The car is a 1990 2.6 190e with unknown mileage. The odometer is frozen at 99k miles. I took my car several weeks ago and it failed because the low speed idle was too high (1400 rpm). They said it kept aborting the test and couldn't complete so they didn't charge me.

I found the air intake hose and air scoop were missing. The Air Intake Temperature sensor was just floating around the engine bay. I found somebody parting their car out and picked up the difficult to find oval shaped intake setup. I also replaced all the vacuum line connections (aside from any hidden in the fender) and found several unplugged, including one to the throttle body.

This effort appears to have fixed the idle problem. Now it fails for high CO%. Here are the numbers.

High speed:

RPM: 2423

HC (PPM): Standard 220, Current 103 (PASS)
CO%: Standard 1.2, Current .56 (PASS)
CO2%: 14.0
O2%: 0.8
NOx(ppm): 0.00
DILUTION(%): Standard >6, Current 14.6 (PASS)

Low Speed:

RPM: 727

HC (PPM): Standard 220, Current 188 (PASS)
CO%: Standard 1.20, Current 1.58 (FAIL)
CO2%: 13.7
O2%: 0.3
NOx (ppm): 0.00
DILUTION(%): Standard >6, Current 15.3

Is there something obvious based on these numbers? I haven't messed with the Air/Mix, but I got this car used and somebody has already defeated the tamper proof ball. So it has been messed with at some point.

Thanks in advance for any help. My inspection sticker expired 5/12 (lol) and eventually I'll get pulled over. The car will be emissions exempt in 2/14 I believe, which grates on my nerves a little.

Bump. Did a tune up. (correct plugs, ditributor cap,rotor, Bosch wires). Replaced all vacuum connectors I can see. I'm going to pull the fuel distributor and airflow sensor assembly and get all the hoses under there. Replaced a fuel pump and filter. The pump was leaking and noisy. Worried about fire hazard.

Car does seem to lack power. The exhaust has a gas smell. When I pull the dipstick tube or open the oil cap smoke comes out. It isn't burning oil. No oil in coolant or vice versa. No smoke from exhaust. I'm running some stuff from CRC called "guaranteed to pass." It has helped clean the fuel system because the fuel gauge works when engine is cold. Before it wouldn't register until warmed up.

Retest is next Saturday. Any help appreciated.

replace the oxygen sensor and air filter too. I have the same car and I failed smog so many times. You can do a search on the posts ore threads that I started and find some info I included.

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1990 190E 3.0L

I did go back through your emissions threads. Valve job is on my list of to do.

O2 sensor .. Did you use a universal bosch sensor and just reuse the original connector?

I'm really wanting to do springs/ball joints/struts next, and brakes. Seems my priority list is different than the states. Safety has gotten lost now that emissions eats up all the time the inspectors have. 2/14 I can go register it as a "classic car" and forget about emissions.

I used the Bosch O2 sensor for a 1990 For Mustang 5.0. Just cut the end of the connector and attach it to the old connector and you should be good to go. Ford O2 Sensor = ~$39 Mercedes O2 Sensor = ~$150! And they are the same except for the end connectors.

I know what you mean about the emissions, but in California unless your car is 1974 or older you have to continue with smog. I think Ca may be the strictest state for smog, but the only loophole is to have car registered in a town which is smog exempt....luckily for me, I know someone that just moved to such a town

The ball joints on the control arms are a @#%*! to do. You should instead purchase the entire control arm that comes with ball joints and control arm bushings already in place. All the other suspension and steering components are fairly easy and straight forward.

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1990 190E 3.0L

Throw in a bottle of RXP fuel additive, and I'll bet you a nickel you'll pass the emissions test w/ flying colors/thread.

If you really want to save $ on the licensing fees in Texas, go with the antique classification of your vehicle. Last time I checked, the licensing is good for several years, and is waay dirt cheap. Downside: If you get pulled over, you will need to tell the officer that you are driving it to a car show parade or event/display......or, that you are specifically driving it to your mechanic's facility to get worked on. LE may frown on it if they see you driving it too much, i.e. same LE officer, and ticket you. -Check this out at the DMV/tax office for the rules and regs.

Or, go diesel, and you're exempt from the rectum/tailpipe/treadmill test annually in Texas' largest counties. Annual insp. $14.50. All my stuff is diesel for 2+ decades here in Dallas.

The antique plates get it past all inspections. But like you said, could be a problem if the cops see it is obviously being used as a commuter. Like parked at a office building every day.

The Classic Car plates have unlimited use. Just have to do a safety inspection. It is a classic car too. I remember seeing these in high school and finding them visually appealing.

Wictory! Just got the main fuel supply line done. That was a messy one. Getting the wrench on the nut above the diff was a barrel of monkeys. I really do need to get a full set of stubby wrenches. It also took forever to drain the fuel tank. I thought it
would drain fast through that main line. It trickled out for a long time.

It is running a lot smoother with that fix and the new fuel pump/filter. When I turn the key I can barely feel or hear the engine start. I do think air was getting in the line. So now on to the hoses beneath the fuel distributor.

Been a busy morning. I took off the airflow /fuel distributor assembly and replaced the two hoses under that. The smooth black one fell apart when I removed it. The ribbed hose was cracked. I also cleaned the throttle body which was extremely carbonized. Got it all back together and it is running smoother. I got it down to the gas light yesterday and refueled which completes the fuel cleaner exercise.

I checked for codes and no codes. I checked the duty cycle and it is hovering around 50% so I didn't dork with it. Now just awaiting the mail to arrive. My e-brake button started flying off including the spring so I ordered a new one. It's supposed to arrive today.

Going to go full blast up and down the highway to heat up the cat and take it back for reinspection. Wish me luck!

Post the results and the numbers when you finish

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1990 190E 3.0L

Passed!

High Speed:
Numbers listed as Standard/Mine

RPM: 2404

HC(PPM): 220/17 (Pass)
CO%: 1.2/0.01 (Pass)
CO2%: 15.0
O2%: 0.2
NOx(PPM): 0
Dilution %: 15.0

Low Speed:

RPM: 756

HC(PPM): 220/113 (Pass)
CO(%): 1.2/0.89 (Pass)
CO2(%): 14.3
O2(%): 0.2
NOx(ppm): 0
Dilution %: 15.2

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Pics attached. Needs mechanical work (suspension and transmission most notably) but the body and interior are in good shape. I'm estimating 10k after all is said and done, including black paint.

Edit: Janis Joplin Greatest Hits in the deck. The tape player is hurting, but I've found Becker has an exchange program. The in-dash tape holders actually work.

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Passed again. This time:

RPM: 2440

HC(PPM): 220/127 (Pass)
CO%: 1.2/0.33 (Pass)
CO2%: 14.2
O2%: 0.4
NOx(PPM): 0
Dilution %: 14.5

Low Speed:

RPM: 729

HC(PPM): 220/132 (Pass)
CO(%): 1.2/0.06 (Pass)
CO2(%): 14.6
O2(%): 0.1
NOx(ppm): 0
Dilution %: 14.7

Thank you for sharing. Did you use the RXP fuel additive ? Anything special you did for it to pass?

I used CRC Guaranteed to Pass. I poured it in a full tank and drove it down to the gas light. Then I refilled, and did drive it back and forth to work once before taking it in for inspection. I raced it up and down a 55mph street in 3rd gear before taking it in. As luck would have it, I got a new inspector that took 45 minutes to figure out how to hook the emissions test stuff up, so I guess that didn't help.

Now that I know what I know, it passed the first time a year ago in limp mode. It wasn't even using the o2 sensor for input. The IAC was bad, airflow sensor was bad, and evap system (charcoal canister) wasn't even hooked up. So I think that magic potion does something.