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  #1  
Old 08-31-2013, 02:56 PM
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1988 300E start/no start

Car stalled a few times while my mom was driving (it had just reached operating temp a few miles from home). She got it home and parked it. After sitting a few days, it started right up today but after ~5-10 mins, after it was warmed up it slowly died and I couldn't restart it. Checked fuel pressure by cracking line at fuel distrib and also at injector, good pressure. Next checked spark at plug, strong. Sprayed starting fluid into throttle body, nothing, not even a pop. Fuel pump is coming on, checked relay and OVP. Let it sit/recharged battery for 1 hr. Got it to light with throttle fully open, felt like it was flooded but plugs were dry when I earlier checked for spark. Revved it up to redline a few times, settled into nice idle. I checked for air leaks all around the CIS-E rubber with propane. Nothing. Let it idle for an hour and it restarted just fine.

Any ideas what I should be looking into? Don't want to break down during a test drive.

Thanks.

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Old 09-01-2013, 07:38 AM
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Does the crank position sensor ever go bad?
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tilac1 View Post
Does the crank position sensor ever go bad?
sure does.... easy change out
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:16 AM
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Dying when reaching operating temp is almost always cap and rotor.

Check crank sensor just to eliminate it. It should ohm out at 800-1200? Someone please correct me if those figures are wrong.
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Old 09-01-2013, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
Dying when reaching operating temp is almost always cap and rotor.

Check crank sensor just to eliminate it. It should ohm out at 800-1200? Someone please correct me if those figures are wrong.
Cap and rotor and wires and plugs recent. However, I did pull off the cap and rotor to inspect and clean. I'll check crank sensor next. Thanks.
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Old 09-01-2013, 11:34 PM
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How recent is recent? Where they oe? Aftermarket? Off brand?

You are losing spark when the car warms up. 90 percent of the time it's in the cap or rotor
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
How recent is recent? Where they oe? Aftermarket? Off brand?

You are losing spark when the car warms up. 90 percent of the time it's in the cap or rotor
~5K miles ago. All Bosch.
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Old 09-02-2013, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
Dying when reaching operating temp is almost always cap and rotor.

Check crank sensor just to eliminate it. It should ohm out at 800-1200? Someone please correct me if those figures are wrong.
Crank Sensor ohms out at ~850. Car seems to run fine now, hot or cold. I ordered an extra fuel pump relay just to be safe.
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Old 09-02-2013, 12:38 PM
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Test it when the engine is warm and cold. If there is little difference the. Cps is good

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