I have a 2004 E320.
I bought a complete set of extra 16" stock wheels with 6 month old Michelin tires (mounted and balanced) and want to mount them on the car myself.

What is the proper torque setting in foot pounds for putting on the lugs?

Not sure what I will do with the other wheels but if I damage one of mine I have 4 spares

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"Do not fight if there is nothing to be gained by winning."
Erwin Rommel

Should say in the owners manual, I believe it is 130nm which is about 95 ft-lb.
I always did the traditional and recommended star pattern sequence, then did it around in a circle to make sure I didn't miss one somehow.

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I use 90 lb-ft for my wheels, been using it so long, I cannot remember how I decided on that number....

Another item that is nice to have when you change a tire is the threaded rod that should be in your tool kit. I've noticed that this item is usually the first thing that goes missing as well.....

First, loosen the lug bolts before lifting the car.

You should be able to jack the car at the rear by centering your trolley jack on the differential. For the front, look for the front crossmember under the engine oil pan. If you wish to do the wheels individually, you can use the jack points along the rocker panel. Be very careful if you decide to use the jack as your only suspension point. Jacks have a habit of failing when you are under the car...... If nothing else, shove one of the spare tires under the rocker panel for a secondary safety measure.

Once the wheel is off the ground with bolts loosened, it's time center one lug at the top of the bolt circle and remove it. Install the threaded rod (you know, the one that's supposed to be in tool kit?) then remove the last four lug bolts. Mercedes wheels are hub centric, which means the wheel is centered via the hole in the center of the wheel. On cars in corrosion prone areas this feature can cause the wheel to corrode to the hub. Repeated agitation of the tire/wheel is usually sufficient to break the wheel loose from the hub.

When installing the new wheel, ensure the threaded rod is at it's top most position, then install the wheel on the hub with the rod poking through the topmost lug bolt hole in the wheel. Install the four lug bolts, then remove the rod, and install the last lug bolt. Cinch them up hand tight, then lower the car.

And, as mentioned by Gilly, use a star pattern when tightening. The star pattern is easily remembered if you go in a clockwise direction, and skip every other lug bolt. I like to snug the bolts whilst the wheel is still in the air, then I drop the car and roll it a couple of feet to let the suspension settle (this takes any left/right side force on the tire contact patch {moment arm deflection} out of the equation.) and using the aforementioned pattern, tighten to 90 lb-ft.

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

Thanks Jim, I never knew about the center rod thing. What is the point in that?

I am mounting 4 different wheels not the same ones so am not sure I understand the point of the center rod but I do have that in the tool kit.

L

__________________
"Do not fight if there is nothing to be gained by winning."
Erwin Rommel

Since MB uses Lug bolts as opposed to lug nuts, the alignment rod supports the wheel in the correct position while you insert the rest of the lug bolts.

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Good luck.






1998 E320 Wagon