1998 E320 questions!!

[jenn Williams]

Howdy guys...my name is jenn and I have just purchased (2 months ago ) a 1998 E320. It has 192,000 miles and I have a couple of questions.
1. About two weeks ago I was detailing the inside...had the Windows rolled down. Rolled them up when I was done parked car in garage and the next day none of the Windows work and neither does the outside mirror adjustment. I programmed my key this evening and what I heard sounded like a small motor running...about 3 seconds...and quits and then starts again. it sounds as if it is coming from under the passenger seat. Is this where the relay or a motor of some kind for the Windows is located?? All fuses have Bern checked...all ok.
2. A Mercedes mechanic fixed my tail light. Said it was a wiring issue. Well the car lot I bought it from didn't tell the mechanic about the head light issue. The parking lamp on the passenger side does not work...and when I turn my brights on the low beam lamp on the drivers side goes out...but works on low beam. All bulbs have been replaced and fuses checked. Could this be another wiring issue?? I am also getting a lamp defective message on the instrument panel.
3. I keep reading about the remote for the car controls the Windows. Can someone tell me how to program it? The remote that came with the car is the one with the key blade.
4. I beliIeve my Sun roof is either off track or needs a cable replaced. I'm pretty savy with my hands is this something I could do myself?? The Sun roof only opens about 4 inches and when its moving it sounds like its in a jam.

Even though I am a woman...please don't think I am dingy!!!

Thanks in advance for all of your help and knowledge!!! This forum rocks!!

Jenn

[Gilly]

If the car has a regular bladed key (regular key slot for the key to go in to to start the car) then it is not a 1998. 1998 was the first year for the smartkey. Would look generally like this:

So need to get this part straightened out first as far as what you have for a car and key.

1.The window switches and mirror switches are in the center console, when you were detailing if you got a bit too much cleaner in the switches you might have a situation where it might work when it dries out or you may have fried it. The electrical panel in the lower center console is a 1 piece unit. An eBay part would work fine, no special programming required.
Is the motor noise possiby under the back seat on the passengers side? Unsure about this, one of those things that needs to be heard I guess. The PSE pump is under the rear seat cushion is the reason I ask about the location. I am also a bit uncertain on what you mean when you mention programming the key and hearing this noise, what were you trying to program??

2. Yeah wiring or a part. On the defective bulb warning, lots of common "overlooks", would be the running lights as I call them, those are minor intensity bulbs which are on the inner (high beam) lenses, they should always be on with the car running. Other ones are the front side marker lights, and the license plate light bulbs, also check the center brake light.

3. Functions are called Summer opening and convenience closing. Convenience closing; if the windows are down, you get out of the car, point the remote at the outside door handle area, and press and hold the "lock" button on the remote, the windows will close as long as you hold the button, it will also close the sunroof if opened.
Summer opening: When approaching the car to enter it, same thing, you point the remote at the door handle, and press and hold the "unlock" button, as long as you hold that down the windows will all open. I can't remember if the sunroof opens as well, I think it depends on if it was opened or not when the car was locked. I think it had to be opened and then closed using the convenience closing feature when the car was last locked, again not 100% on that. HAS to have the remote pointed at the receiver in the door handle though for sure, as this is done using IR, not RF, as MB wants you to have line of sight to the car when this is all happening to avoid injuries to others.

4. Probably needs new cables, easy to check if you know what to look for, would need to unclip the inner sunroof panel (the trim panel that looks like the headliner material) which is easy to do, then slide that panel back so you can see the cable guides. Usually the roof has gone without lube for so long that it eventually gets so hard to move that the cable pops out of it's guides. Once it does that, you can lube the sunroof but really won't work reliably. Once it pops out the cable will continue to want to pop out again, it is sort of "bent" at that point in the cable and will continue to fail. So if this is what happened, the roof panel needs to come off, the guides all lube, along with all the other junk that needs lube (sliding shoes, etc) and the cables replaced. Happy news is that other than the roof panel being removed, the sunroof itself can stay in place, won't need to remove the headliner or like that, so happy happy. There is a small part on each side that comes off to pull the cables, which is where the cable will bend and pop out, those small parts usually need to be replaced as well but are dirt cheap, even from MB. Shame people just don't want to maintain these cars, all it takes is 5 or 10 minutes a year to lube the slides and they will operate for years, it's easy to do when the ROOF WILL OPEN (dah!!). Beyatch to fix it once it gets to this stage.
Gilly

[spyderreplica]

W210 Sunroof woes and how to cure them - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

[jenn Williams]

Thanks guys....its been a while since i have been on this site. I really appreciate your responses!!

[E550]

Originally Posted by Gilly

If the car has a regular bladed key (regular key slot for the key to go in to to start the car) then it is not a 1998. 1998 was the first year for the smartkey. Would look generally like this:

So need to get this part straightened out first as far as what you have for a car and key.

1.The window switches and mirror switches are in the center console, when you were detailing if you got a bit too much cleaner in the switches you might have a situation where it might work when it dries out or you may have fried it. The electrical panel in the lower center console is a 1 piece unit. An eBay part would work fine, no special programming required.
Is the motor noise possiby under the back seat on the passengers side? Unsure about this, one of those things that needs to be heard I guess. The PSE pump is under the rear seat cushion is the reason I ask about the location. I am also a bit uncertain on what you mean when you mention programming the key and hearing this noise, what were you trying to program??

2. Yeah wiring or a part. On the defective bulb warning, lots of common "overlooks", would be the running lights as I call them, those are minor intensity bulbs which are on the inner (high beam) lenses, they should always be on with the car running. Other ones are the front side marker lights, and the license plate light bulbs, also check the center brake light.

3. Functions are called Summer opening and convenience closing. Convenience closing; if the windows are down, you get out of the car, point the remote at the outside door handle area, and press and hold the "lock" button on the remote, the windows will close as long as you hold the button, it will also close the sunroof if opened.
Summer opening: When approaching the car to enter it, same thing, you point the remote at the door handle, and press and hold the "unlock" button, as long as you hold that down the windows will all open. I can't remember if the sunroof opens as well, I think it depends on if it was opened or not when the car was locked. I think it had to be opened and then closed using the convenience closing feature when the car was last locked, again not 100% on that. HAS to have the remote pointed at the receiver in the door handle though for sure, as this is done using IR, not RF, as MB wants you to have line of sight to the car when this is all happening to avoid injuries to others.

4. Probably needs new cables, easy to check if you know what to look for, would need to unclip the inner sunroof panel (the trim panel that looks like the headliner material) which is easy to do, then slide that panel back so you can see the cable guides. Usually the roof has gone without lube for so long that it eventually gets so hard to move that the cable pops out of it's guides. Once it does that, you can lube the sunroof but really won't work reliably. Once it pops out the cable will continue to want to pop out again, it is sort of "bent" at that point in the cable and will continue to fail. So if this is what happened, the roof panel needs to come off, the guides all lube, along with all the other junk that needs lube (sliding shoes, etc) and the cables replaced. Happy news is that other than the roof panel being removed, the sunroof itself can stay in place, won't need to remove the headliner or like that, so happy happy. There is a small part on each side that comes off to pull the cables, which is where the cable will bend and pop out, those small parts usually need to be replaced as well but are dirt cheap, even from MB. Shame people just don't want to maintain these cars, all it takes is 5 or 10 minutes a year to lube the slides and they will operate for years, it's easy to do when the ROOF WILL OPEN (dah!!). Beyatch to fix it once it gets to this stage.
Gilly

My wife's key on the 2000 E320 on the end the red glass portion is broken. The key looks like the one in your picture.

I understand that I can change the housing on the key with a replacement part from E-bay. Will the replacement housing start the vehicle and all functions work?

[RichardM98]

There were 3 generations of Smart Keys during the W210 model. First was the biggest (about 78mm long), second smaller (about 68mm long) and third (about 72mm) with chrome sides. Neither the circuit boards or the metal (cut) keys are interchangeable.

If you get a genuine MB smart key of the RIGHT generation, that is, looks exactly* the same as yours, then you can take out the circuit board and put it in the new (used) key. Many inexpensive Chinese knockouts don't start the car reliably even though it's just a plastic case. Also, don't buy a used key thinking that the dealer will program it to your car -- they won't.

Or you could treat your wife to a new Smart Key. About $200-$250 at the dealer and it will be a chrome one.

* Pay attention to the shape and location of the red emergency button as well.

[E550]

Originally Posted by RichardM98

There were 3 generations of Smart Keys during the W210 model. First was the biggest (about 78mm long), second smaller (about 68mm long) and third (about 72mm) with chrome sides. Neither the circuit boards or the metal (cut) keys are interchangeable.

If you get a genuine MB smart key of the RIGHT generation, that is, looks exactly* the same as yours, then you can take out the circuit board and put it in the new (used) key. Many inexpensive Chinese knockouts don't start the car reliably even though it's just a plastic case. Also, don't buy a used key thinking that the dealer will program it to your car -- they won't.

Or you could treat your wife to a new Smart Key. About $200-$250 at the dealer and it will be a chrome one.

* Pay attention to the shape and location of the red emergency button as well.

The key has three functions on one side a chrome MB Star on the other side. The top has a panic button next to the thin key release.

I look at several SmartKey housing on the web. There were several on E-bay and there was one from China. I could not tell if they would be compatible with my present key. Most of the keys were under $30.00 and there were some over $50.00 on one site.

I called a few dealer around the country. The cost ranged from $225.00 to $275.00. I found a local dealer with AAA discount under $200.00. The dealers require proof of ownership. I think I will go with a new key from the dealer. It takes about one day.

[Hirnbeiss]

Regarding your windows issue, the W210 is a digital car, and the elec accessories. Communicate thru the CAN bus. One defective unit can interrupt comms and shut down all windows, seats, mirrors... Google for more info. To isolate, find the connector buried under the door trim at the A-pillarn then disconnect one at a time, disconnect & reconnect battery, then drive around for a few days to see if the problem recurs. Repeat until you isolate the culprit. Mine was the rt rear window motor, which is common.
If you don't want to do this, have a shop with Xentry diagnose it for a one-and-done. Do not throw parts at it.