So, I have been struggling with this for awhile now.

What is everyone's method of jacking the 124's and 210's up in the driveway so you can work on them? What is the best way?

I have been using the jack the cars come with and then placing the jack stand underneath but that is a lot of work and I am always afraid that the original jack with crank won't hold the car once I have the one side already on the jack stand. This has always been a reason to get a two post lift but I don't have an area to install one.

I have also used a floor jack but cannot install a jack since there is no frame per se on the Mercedes....its a real dilemma for me! Ha Ha!

I bought ramps this weekend but they do not fit under both wheels to raise the car due to the trim.

This probably a really dumb question but is the only way a two post lift with the Mercedes?

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Norm K.
'97 E420 Sport
'06 E350 Sedan
'67 Mustang Coupe
'70 F-250
'15 VW Jetta

Not everybody has the luxury of a lift.
Many people have many different opinions about jacking up a W124 in regards of lifting it in the rear as far as the differential goes. Some say it's ok, and some say it's a huge no-no. It's up to you if you want to take the risk. If your mounts are new, I wouldn't hesitate but that is just me. The steel crossmember behind the differential looks like it would be fine, also the frame rail points are another method. Jacking up the front, I would jack it from the jack points if they aren't rotted. Lifting a w210 I would do the same way. Everyone has their own way though.

Assuming your driveway is level...

On the W210 there is a rubber bumper on the cross member under the front of the engine. A low profile floor jack can be inserted from the front or with the wheels turned far right between the left wheel and fender. After raising you can put jack stands under the front jack supports. Some people raise the rear using the diff case. I prefer to raise each rear wheel with the car's emergency jack using the jack hole and then place the jack stand under the rear support.

When working under a car on jack stands, especially alone, remove a couple of the wheels and lay under the car's frame.

FYI - Some ramp makers are now selling attachments to fit under newer low profile cars.

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Good luck.






1998 E320 Wagon

My solution for my 124 and 201:

FRONT:

Use small jack to lift from from control arm bracket on body.
Jack to desired height, and place stand under factory lift point


REAR:

Use differential.

My solution for my 126's

FRONT:

Use bearing support bracket mount, place jack stand under factory lift point.


REAR:

Use subframe mount just forward of factory lift point. Place stand jack under factory lift point.

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My ancient long jack is perfect to lift almost any car, its pretty low profile and can reach deep.

I use a plank of wood to buffer the jack cup and lift from the front cross member and install jackstands - for the rear I use the diff or sometimes bolts on the factory jack holes and then stands on the jack pads.

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1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
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About the ramps, I have these plastic ramps that work great on all my cars..The ramp portion is long, and they work great on all these Stock low profile cars-never hitting the bumpers.. I got them at pepboys

blitz ramps - Yahoo Search Results

I never like jack stands as I'm always doing transmission work, and I need the space behind the wheels...

Best of luck,

Martin

You are NOT supposed to EVER raise ANY vehicle by its differential.

No way am I putting a jack under my W124's diff.

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Steven
1989 260E (276K miles)
1995 E320 (50K miles)

Why???

For pretty much every Merc and BMW I have worked on I lift from the diff in the back and put the jack stands at the jacking points. I've never had an issue with that. If you look at how the diff is mounted on these and most other German cars you're lifting it by the subframe when you do this and the heavy cast diff is just transmitting the load.

For the front I often lift from the center jack point on the cross member and put the stands at the jacking points. If that looks unsuitable for any reason or I'm just lifting a side I use the jack point for the jack and put the stand on the frame rail. I just don't even touch pinch welds on cars unless its with a lift.

If your car is a rust bucket these methods will need to be modified.

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For every Merc I’ve ever owned, I lift the rear by putting a floor jack under the diff, with an appropriate jack pad. I usually lift the front corners with a jack and pad under the inner fulcrum shaft. Stands then go where the jack points are.

Even then, this isn't a problem.

On my my W202 and R129.

The front is low enough that I drive on a 2 x 10 wood to gain a bit of height. I pick up from the front cross member and use standard jack stands padded with a rag on the frame rails under the drivers feet.

I pick up from the rear diff and use the jacking pucks for jack stand location in the rear. I have some pipe jack stands that I welded a cupped washer to the extension. This cupped washer holds the jacking pucks. Just for completeness, the washers are from Ford truck front axle radius arm bushings.

Don't tell that to Ferry and Butzi Porsche.

You put the motor on the wrong end of the car _again_ ! This isn't a 356.