My Neighbors C240 died while at the shop being diagnosed. from the description he had a low oil condition and it locked up at the shop. The Shop says it will cost 2500$ to replace his motor with a used one. So he asked if I could do it for less. "Sure, let me do some quick research"

I've done a few engine swaps in my time but not on any of the newer MB's. Are there any tricks or tips I need to be aware of? Any C240 specific cautionaries? Are there any C240 Specific tools that I will need to get this thing off the tranny and out of the car?

Are there any "while your at it do this" things that should be done?

Any one have a preferred used engine supplier?

Thanks

I don't know about this specific car, but can offer generalities. Also, how long does the owner want to keep car? If a trade in is looming, don't do much other than getting it running. Don't bother trading in as is,a car dealer won't give much for a non running car ( ~ $ 500 actual but they might claim they are giving $ 2,000 + )

If auto trans it should be a 722.6, nothing special to split the two.

If 4 matic the oil pan will likely be different.

Change the crank sensor, they are usually in a difficult spot on the rear of engine.

Change any hard to get to coolant hoses, water pump, belt, maybe valve cover gaskets if leak prone. Maybe an upper hose.

Crank seal could be changed with proper tools, I would not do anything with the trans.

Usually it is easier to leave the wiring harness on the engine and unplug from car.

Try the nation wide salvage yard inventory search car-part.com for a motor.

Think twice about volunteering for this job, esp since you've never done it. Someone who runs his car out of oil doesn't sound like a good car person. After you put in all your sweat and busted knuckles you may clear $1000 (for an engine of unknown quality), but when he breaks it again, he will blame you. The shop quote wasn't bad -I'd recommend he take it.

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Prost!

I'd think twice,a shop labor is 12 hours to switch engines.A shade tree mechanic,36 hours and alot of cussing.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt

I've found W203 motors complete, as cheap as $1000.00. I think that is overcharging. $2500.00 used? Likely they won't test it before they charge your pal for the labor and shop supplies and he'll be SOL if he can't get any guarantees.

eBay as a last resort provided with a video of it running before removal. Craigslist first. C240s can be had for pennies. I see a lot of rusty W203 [early production years] and ones with trans problems dirt cheap no one wants to fix on craigslist so keep an eye out for hammy down parts cars.

IIRC, you can't buy replacement engine parts either so that is out of the book.

Also is it a 4Matic? 4Matic was cosmetically identical to a 2WD, but a whole different animal inside.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

And what sort of mileage / warranty does this $ 1,000 engine have? Is it local to the person that needs the motor? If not, what sort of shipping charge?

They are private sellers I'm referencing to. If you really want a warranty buy a $2500.00 used engine just with a paper guarantee from Billy Bob. Anyone who isn't hiding anything sells the engine in the car while it is drivable for an around the block test or to let it idle up to temp if you go the part out route.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

Garages generally don't buy from private sellers, too much risk. Good salvage yards that offer warranties and good parts are known to those in the biz.

The OP said the $ 2500 quote was replace old engine with used one so that would include engine, misc parts and labor. Sure, there are less expensive ways to make the car go again if a person does their own work, sniffs around for parts. However, if the car owner wants the job done now, they will need to pay going rate. It's like that in dealing with any business.

Salvage yards check out engines then usually break the car up so don't expect a drive around the block.

You make it sound like every shop is out to get you. If you quit your job today, bought 10's of thousands of $ worth of tools, bought a building and everything that goes along with running a business. . . . what would you charge for the motor swap and what sort of warranty would you offer?

Before I go on, he didn't even mention whether there's anything else wrong with it and it's worth the breath fixing. C-Classes are cheap enough to buy in good shape already. This was my main concern and I should have elaborated more.

I'm also talking about private sellers, not scrapyards. Yards WON'T allow you to "test drive" because most yards now cut the battery cables for liability reasons.

Let's say since independents charge around $130.00 an hour [the rates are typically "adjusted" frequently ] and it takes them 8 hours in and out. $1040.00 labor right there. Between the engine it'll be $3700.00 roughly if it cost a little more than that "quote" his mechanic gave his neighbor. A C-Class can easily be had cheap to keep this for spare parts and have a really good running car and a spare scavenger car. I'm just curious and asking him if it really is worth the cash.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

1 I'm a student looking to add some cash to the bank 2 Like I said long story but that is not the story. He's not the kind o guy who "runs his car out of oil" in fact He is quite regular with his maintenance and had already put over 1500$ into the car trying to repair one problem. then it started smoking under load. (from what i understand there is no dipstick or that year model to check the oil with.) the idiot light never came on. but the check engine light did, that being said he was very very concerned about the smoke and had it to the shop because he knew it had a problem. the motor died AT the shop with the mechanic who didn't try to check the oil before he started it.
3 The shop started before he could tell them otherwise.
4 So are there any trick to changing a motor in a c class? Specifically the C240??? I believe that was my original question and not whether or not I should pursue it. Item number one determined that already. $1000 for 3 days of "fun" is well worth it in my book.

The motor came from a salvage yard with a 6 month warranty. He called the shop and they let it go to VM. in the message he told them he had another price on the job. Amazingly they called him back until after the holiday and said they had his old motor out and new one on the way and that they'd have the car back to him that Friday. So if anything I helped him get it done faster .

SOOO back to the Original question, which was not whether or not this was a good Idea by the way, Are there any special quirks or Job specific tools required to change out motors on a 2004 C class? yes ? No? and if yes what might they be? For instance when I swap motors on a w123 diesel I make a note to myself to verify that I disconnected the Oil Pressure sending line. I missed it the very first time I did it and took a few minutes in the dark to figure out what was holding me up. or all the bolts that hold the motor to the tranny are like 15 or 17mm except the 2 that hold the starter those are hex bolts (forget the size). nice to already have those tools handy when your under there. Oh And I loop a fuel line from supply to return pipes to keep from gravity draining the tank to the ground. the c class is so much more compact and crowed under the hood that there have got to be some tricks to the trade. that's what I'm actually looking for.