First, of all, thanks for the advice earlier. Having actually seen the car, I've decided it's only really worth anything as a parts car, which I am ok with; I mostly bought it for the interior. That said, I'd prefer to have it running just to not get hassled about it.

I'll try to upload a video later this weekend, but basically, it doesn't idle particularly well, and gets worse at higher underhood temps. Once it gets hot (90-100 F on the outside temp meter, ~85-90 C coolant temp), it will stall whenever I put it to drive, once it is cooled down, it will make it maybe a few minutes before stalling again. It bucks and sputters just before stalling, which at first made me think it is a fuel issue, however, I've bridged 7-8 on the FPR, which, near as I can tell totally bypasses the FPR, and it still stalls. Also the CPS puts out ~900 ohms just before this stalling condition. The PO replaced the fuel pumps within the last year, and I would assume the fuel filter as well, I don't want to pull the tank strainer in the parking lot it's at, but I don't think it would be that anyway. The other possible cause I can think of without digging deep into it is the plugs and wires, which are almost certainly not correct.

Also, I'm curious what this element attached to the fuel distributor is, and if that might affect the stalling.

Attached Thumbnails

 

It desperately needs an ignition system tune up.
Plugs
Wires
Cap
Rotor.

__________________
Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

Thats the fuel pressure regulator , the small line going to breather hose shouldnt leak any fuel into line if it does replace it

My 16v 201 had idle, stalling, surging issues only when warm. Turned out the coolant temp sensor was out of specs almost 300ohms when warm. As a quick test I put a 400 reistor ($1.00). It settled down immediately. I also suspected a leaking cold start injector. That would also explain poor performance when warm.

Get some resistors in various ohms from radio shack and pull the little plugs off of the CTS. Make contact to see if it changes idle.

I've been busy with class, but I'll try that this weekend. The only thing bugging me about it is it seems to also slighty be a function of the transmission, which just seems bizarre. Like at first I thought the loading affected it, but now I'm not so sure.

Replaced the plugs & wires with Bosch OE specs. It cleaned up the cold idle a bit, but it still acts up when hot. I'm not sure if this helps identify the problem, but when I put it in neutral and floored it, it would climb to ~4k, pause there for a moment, then rev easier all the way up when cold. When it got warm, again all the way to the floor, it would get to ~5k then slowly drop the highest revs, first to ~4k for a bit (maybe 30 sec to a min), then 3k for a bit, then 2k, then got between 500 & 1500 and sort of a surge, then finally wouldn't get over 500, before stalling completely after about a minute of struggling. I let it sit for around a minute, it fired up, climbed up for an instant, then came back down to 1k-1500 while floored, before dying within a minute.

Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but pulling the OVP disables the EZL & ECU, but the engine should still run, correct?

It doesn't disable the EZL as that would me no spark and no go.

Have you checked the condition of your cap and rotor?

RayH

Were the fuel pumps replaced with new ones or junkyard refugees?

Test your fuel pressure.

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