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Old 04-11-2002, 09:55 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: boston ,Ma
Posts: 153
euro car need help

I was found out from fast lane that my car is a euro car that it wasnt built for the US was going to buy a catalytic converter from them it turns out it would not fit my car i have a 1 inlet 2 outlet converter but the one thy show in 2 in 2 out then he ask me a few question about my vin # then he told me my car was not made for the us now what do i do i know in Europe they grade they fuel differently now should i still use premium on the car or go with a lower grade any of you guys have a Euro car?tell me what u had to do please any info would be helpful
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Old 04-11-2002, 10:10 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 788
OK, your post was a bit unclear so I will do the best I can. With the cat...if you need to replace it you might as well replace it with a high flow unit and free up the exhaust a little bit. Stock cats can be a bit restrictive. I would give Random Technology a try ( You can get a universal cat in any diameter and any number of ins and outs you want. With the gas...what does it say in the owner's manual? Try 91 and see if it knocks. If it does, then go to 92 or 93. If you can't find anywhere what it needs, then you may just have to experiment a little, but generally speaking, Mercedes run on Premium.
'86 420SE Euro
904 Midnight Blue, Gray Velour
Dad bought it new, now I own it.

"A Mercedes-Benz is like a fine wine, it only gets better with age."
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Old 04-11-2002, 08:04 PM
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Old Lyme, Connecticut
Posts: 3,596

If your car had a factory installed Euro emissions system, you will have a small black, 1.5" or so diameter, plastic knob on the driver's side front fender with green lettering on it. It is an ignition timing selector and you set it according to the octane of the fuel you buy. If the car came from Germany with the factory installed system you will have a little decal under filler flap, and possibly one in the glove box, that says "Super Bleifrei" which is lead free high test. Which is 91 octane to us. If you use a higher octane you can set the knob to the "no resistor" position and get a few more hp. To find that you have to take the knob all the way off and look under the cap for how the pins are arranged. On the outside you will see "N" and "S" for "Regular (Normal auf Deutsch)" and "Premium (Super auf Deutsch)" and a bunch of other tick marks for in between octane ratings, as well as one spot with nothing. The nothing position, I believe is the no resistor position, but check it out yourself - the scheme is visible when you look inside.

If you have a Euro car that was modified over here to put an emissions system on it the car needs 91 octane or better. The octane rating is based on the compression ratio and almost all Euro models had 10:1 or so compression ratios. To run on a low octane and not knock cars use compression ratios around 8:1 or so.

Enjoy the car and good luck, Jim
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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