|
|
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Here is a schematic of the early system:
Ignore the red wire; it is for a Pertronix system. The rest is original. Hicks82: Your labeled picture, and connection list seems to match the above schematic. Check that the points are clean (making contact when closed), and that the breaker plate is grounded to the dist. housing, and that the dist. housing itself is grounded. Also ensure that the switchgear housing is grounded. As a functional check, use a jumper wire to the green dist. wire at the TB to strike to ground (with the points open). If the switchgear is good, there should be spark at the coil secondary as the trigger circuit is closed and opened. Last edited by Frank Reiner; 05-29-2015 at 06:54 PM. |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Model 107 This is direct link to appropriate page: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11883/PROGRAM/Engine/107/M117_45/075-519.pdf A few comments: - It is true that the condenser is not required. - A points gap of 0.014" will give you approx correct Dwell. - Make sure your distributor cap is properly seated and that the rotor contacts are sound (incl the carbon one in center) - If wiring is connected properly, the switchgear or coil could be faulty. Bad news is that that could be expensive. Good news is that you can completely eliminate both by using a Pertronix and a Flamethrower coil. These will replace points, switchgear and original coil. There is a lot of information on this both here in the Vintage forum and especially in Benzworld in the 107 forum. See D-Jetronic section in Encylopedia Germanica in BW stickies. And in particular, the Comprehensive Illustrated Djet thread. (mostly about fuel injection, but see post #13) That should keep you busy for a while
__________________
Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks, Graham; I thought that the diagram I found was the one. As your post shows, it may be the correct one.
|
#19
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The wire shown in bold black is the other side of the Pertronix wiring. On the original, that is the green wire from the distributor. Hicks should check that that wire is not grounding anywhere. It can do that where it exits the distributor or it could have worn through somewhere along the way to the terminal. He definitely won't get a spark if that wire is grounded or broken. If wiring otherwise seems correct, it may be best to install the Pertronix 1885 just as a points replacement. If car still does not run, then rewire and bypass the switchgear as per the Pertronix link and add Flamethrower coil. I have not gone that far, but several others with same car have with good results. Tach is sometimes thrown off, but resistor in lead can correct that. Some other comments that may not be relevant: - coil looks new. If so, it might be worth checking that it is the proper one for car. The coils on these cars are not standard coils (different winding ratios) - There appears to be a crimp connector on line 2 (and maybe elsewhere). Perhaps make sure the connection is good. - there should be at least 12V on the front (left in pic) side of the 4kohm resistor, Hicks line 8. (It is fed from ignition key). 12V is also applied to other side of 4kohm resistor to boost voltage, but only when starter is operating. There should also be a green/black line going to tach from the TB line 6 connector. Can't see it, but it may be there.
__________________
Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 Last edited by Graham; 05-30-2015 at 11:45 AM. |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks, I have ordered a new "switchgear" ignition control module.
|
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Even with a replacement "switchgear" (which may or may not be your problem), installing a Pertronix as depicted in wiring diagram posted earlier (as just a points replacement), is good upgrade. As distributors wear, they get shaft wobble. Points don't cope with this too well, but the Pertronix is not affected and you never have to worry about points gap or dwell again.
__________________
Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
Bookmarks |
|
|