I'm sure this question has been posted a million times, but I'm going to ask anyway to keep from having to search for it, if ya'll don't mind!

I think the fan clutch is going out on my 95 E320 Wagon, as I'm seeing small aluminum metal flakes / chips being blown up on the engine and can't see anywhere else they may be coming from.

I suspect the fan clutch as it tends to run hot at idle and in slow stop and go traffic, and then cools down again once I start moving and air begins moving through the radiator.

I've unbolted the four bolts and pulled the fan blade assembly off and understand a special tool is needed to pull the clutch.

Is there a way around a special tool or is one available that could be rented that makes the job more simple?

Also I'm assuming the radiator and electric fans need to be removed to do this...is that correct?

Tech info top of the page all type of repairs in there .

This should be the type with an allen bolt in the center ( 8 MM I think, if not that 10 mm )

If you have an impact wrench ( air or electric ) you can give it a hit with that and it will come right out. If no power tools, use a strap wrench around the pulley.

The shavings are likely coming from another source. The typical fan clutch failure is the bearing failing and fan staying engaged at all times.

Thanks for the good info...we'll examine it closer to see if something else is causing the flying aluminum chips!

I guess it is like the 1994 E320 and my guess would be the bearing at the engine block behind the fan it is bought with the aluminium housing not expensive if I remember.

MB300se65, sounds like the fan clutch bearing bracket is failing. Recommend buying a rebuilt one from your local MB dealer because you want a quality part ... not a job you want to repeat anytime soon. Need to disassemble most of the accessories on the front of the engine to R/R the fan clutch bearing bracket. It's a time-consuming job, especially if the front of your engine has a build-up of grease and grime, although not particularly difficult. Advise taking pictures and tagging bolts as you disassemble so you remember how to reassemble everything. If you accidentally use a short bolt where a longer one belongs, you can easily strip the female threads.

Use a small allen wrench (or a bent piece of 1/8"wire) in the bearing bracket slot to hold the fan clutch in place while loosening the center allen bolt.

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Fred Hoelzle

This is great info Ferdman and spit64!!! So from what you guys are thinking it is coming from the fan clutch area after all!

Whats confusing is the clutch spins freely with the typical resistance that I think feels normal from what I can remember from one that's working properly, and there's no grinding sound or indication that it's bad other than the fact that it tends to run hot at idle and in slow stop and go traffic.

You two mention the "fan clutch bearing bracket" and the "bearing at the engine block behind the fan", are these two items one in the same?

I don't have an exploded view drawing of the engine and am wanting to clarify this!

Is it the pulley that drives the fan with the serpentine belt mounted to a bracket on the front top of the engine, and what you two are suggesting is that it's the bearing on this bracket / pulley that's going out?

I've attached two images, with one having an arrow pointing to this pulley. The second one shows an arrow pointing to the chips I'm seeing, which are blowing up on the left side of the engine behind that pulley.

I don't buy anything from stealership.I use Ebay,and buy MB brand parts to.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt

I wish the mods would put your term for dealership in the bad word list, it drags the entire automotive industry down including Peach Parts as some will include PP in that sphere.

When getting my 97 SL320 up to spec, I bought a lot of parts at the dealer that were competitive with aftermarket. An example would be coolant hoses, I changed every last hose on the car not wanting an unannounced breakdown. All but one was in stock at the USA warehouse , one had to come from Germany and it arrived the next day with no freight charge!

Sure there are parts that may be a better value in the open market ( like spark plugs, belts, some gaskets ) , but sometimes it isn't worth the time battling over a few $.

You will have a much better time of it if you pull the radiator, it opens up a bit of room.

That is a lot of aluminum, don't drive the car as something is on the verge of coming completely apart.

Pull the fan belt and spin / wobble the fan.

I'm with you on that 97 SL320!!! Having worked for Mercedes back in the mid 1970's I saw nothing at the corporate level or in the dealerships that would shed a bad light on any part of the organization!

I haven't heard back from Ferdman or spit64 regarding my last post and am curious if you might have any thoughts on the questions I've asked in it?

It's been parked since I 1st saw the chips up on the engine and isn't going anywhere until I get it fixed.

I love to tinker and like doing my own repairs, so when I'm relatively certain I understand what may be causing it I'll dig in and fix it myself!

fan clutch bearing bracket is the right name do not live in USA I bought my part at MB and the car has running 200 000 miles since I change the part. Do the job is much easier without the radiator a lot of space.

MB300se65, the arrow in the top picture points to the pulley that mounts to the fan clutch bearing bracket. Recommend removing the fan belt and spinning the fan/pulley assembly to confirm that the bearing is failing. The assembly will likely wobble as you spin it because the metal chips are a clear sign the bearing is failing.

The fan clutch bearing bracket mounts to the front of the engine. If you plan to buy a rebuilt one from your local MB dealer you will need to exchange the old one, or pay a "core charge". Obviously, it's less expensive to buy a rebuilt item than a new one; however, a rebuilt one will cost around $80 as I recall. Good time to replace the drive belt if that hasn't been changed recently. Removing the radiator is not necessary, simply remove the shroud ... which you already did. I presume you know how the belt tensioner on your car works.

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Fred Hoelzle

Thanks guys, this is exactly the type of help I was looking for...you're great!!! I put a new belt on it about 1,000 miles back when I replaced the water pump, so that's good to go!