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#31
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I replaced my idler arm bushing (which was an item I replaced 50k ago RIGHT BEFORE this issue occurred.)
After replacing the bushing, my front toe looks pretty far off. I'm wondering if this is the culprit. Rear toe = zero toe 0" +- .05" --- No photo self explanatory Front toe: --front measures 69 1/4 +- 0.5" --rear measures 69 3/4 +- 0.5" Looks to me like ~0.25" toe could be too much. I'll get it aligned before I say the idler arm was not the problem.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#32
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That spindle looks terrible.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#33
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#34
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I think he doesn't realize that it was repacked before with an orange color grease instead of Mercedes green grease and it makes it look like the spindle is rusted out. I thought the same thing when I saw the photos, then I read the post.
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#35
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by the picture the spindle looks scored - if the scratches have worn it down to the point of the bearing not fully seating on the spindle the bearing will walk on the spindle and cause more wear. Usually the spindle is not damaged on MB due to the large amount of grease and also the bearing adjustment being precise rather than a fordchevy feel and lock. overtight bearings will burn the grease and cause the rollers to drag the inner race with it causing such scoring.
The shade tree way in oldschool times was to take a punch to the side of the spindle to deform it or a chisel to make some teeth to give the bearing some bite after dressing the spindle. correct repair was to change the spindle.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#36
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The spindle was smooth..in hindsight I dont think it was an issue after googling more spindle images.
Heres a video of my bad subframe mounts. I got a quote from a local shop to do it for $575 including differential mounts. This is one of the few jobs I don't want to undertake myself so I am probably going to hand it off this one time. As you can see from the video, pretty sure they are TOAST!! It could definitely be my pull..or either way they are so far gone it needs to be done regardless. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lu5MPG47T2E&feature=youtu.be
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#37
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I don't mean to be a wet blanket but you can not measure toe-in in the manner you show. Between the deflection of the tire's bulge, rim straightness variation, lack of level ground causing improper suspension height and several other factors this won't even give you a SWAG.
The closest you can come manually is to: Mark the center of the tires by either using chalk or a scribe while rotating the wheel. Getting the car on a level surface. Center the steering box. Measure the difference between the front line and the rear line at the same height. Do the math. The straightness of the steering wheel only serves as a guide and not as an absolute. Wear lines on the spindle are normal. If there are no ridges or "blueing" due to heat then there is no problem. I usually "lap" the spindle with some emery cloth to check for scoring. 1/4" toe-in is not excessive. Maybe not perfect but not enough to cause any problem. What your tape is showing is apx. 1/2" but for some reason you use a "+" or "-" value which completely negates any accuracy.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now Last edited by Mike D; 08-15-2015 at 03:14 PM. |
#38
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I used the +- to account for any wheel bulge.
Also the tape shows 1/2", but thats obviously for both wheels together, so that means each wheel is 1/4" toe in unless that's not how you measure it... Either way I will get the subframe mounts done and get it aligned after that and see if the pulling issue is gone.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#39
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It's unusual for toe to cause a steady "pull" unless combined with a different factor such as road gradient. Here in AZ we have pretty flat roads (with the exception of the chuckholes) so we don't usually have too much pitch to the road surface.
If the toe is "in" too much you would get a "skittish" feel to the steering and the tires would show an unusual "feathering" on the outside edge of the tires. By "skittish" I mean a hyper sensitive sensation where the car seems to overreact to mild changes in direction. "Twitchy" I guess you could call it. Too much toe out would give you a "dead" feeling to the steering. There would be a tendency for the car to "swoop" and "dive" along wear tracks or uneven patches of the road surface. You know, like anywhere in the Phoenix Metropolitan area. Wear will show on the inside edges. Use the palm of your hand to compare the front and rear edges of the tires to see if you can feel any differences. You can use the rear tires as a guide. There is no "left" or "right" toe. It is the measurement of the total deviation.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now Last edited by Mike D; 08-15-2015 at 04:38 PM. |
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