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Old 08-16-2015, 01:25 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Bay Area, Northern California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slk230red View Post
Exact thing happened to my '93 190E 2.3 a few years ago and it turned out to be a blown fuse for the aux. fan. Replaced the fuse and no problems since.

If that is not your problem and the aux fan is working for temperature control but not the high side pressure for cooling the condenser, then I would verify that the high pressure switch with the pigtail on the drier/receiver is working correctly.

If the fuse is good and the aux. fan doesn't operate, also check the aux. fan relay in the rear of the main fuse box. I always check mine when I change the oil by shorting the connector at the aux. fan temp. switch. I can hear the relay click before the fan operates.
Thanks slk230red! The aux fan does work for temp control and not the high side pressure. Just as you described. Is the high pressure switch easily replaceable? My understanding is you have to drain the system before replacing the switch. What do you know about that? I have read where someone tried to replace it and they sent all the freon into the atmosphere!
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Old 08-16-2015, 03:58 PM
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Location: Tampa, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_pau View Post
Thanks slk230red! The aux fan does work for temp control and not the high side pressure. Just as you described. Is the high pressure switch easily replaceable? My understanding is you have to drain the system before replacing the switch. What do you know about that? I have read where someone tried to replace it and they sent all the freon into the atmosphere!
Are you still using R12?

With the engine running with the ac on, will the aux. fan operate if you short the 2 wires at the switch on the drier? This will verify that the aux. fan wiring circuit is good.

Yes, you have to evacuate the refrigerant, replace the switch, vacuum the system, and recharge. While you're at it, you might want to replace the drier/receiver and replace both switches.


Option 2: Some guys have used the aux. fan switch connector at the drier/receiver to install a manual switch inside the car to operate the aux. fan when needed. Something you could do until your a/c need other repairs, then you could replace the pressure switch at that time. Just a thought.
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Old 08-16-2015, 08:49 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Bay Area, Northern California
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Actually using R12A. It's something I found on Amazon, didn't require a retrofit and seems to work better than r134 which, according to my mechanic, doesn't cool as well and makes the system work harder. AC works great when I'm not idling. I did read that R12a is pretty flammable. More than r134 or R12.

As I just had the compressor and receiver/drier and r12a replaced, can the mechanic put back the freon after its purged or do I need to get more?

Thanks!!! Appreciate your time!


Quote:
Originally Posted by slk230red View Post
Are you still using R12?

With the engine running with the ac on, will the aux. fan operate if you short the 2 wires at the switch on the drier? This will verify that the aux. fan wiring circuit is good.

Yes, you have to evacuate the refrigerant, replace the switch, vacuum the system, and recharge. While you're at it, you might want to replace the drier/receiver and replace both switches.


Option 2: Some guys have used the aux. fan switch connector at the drier/receiver to install a manual switch inside the car to operate the aux. fan when needed. Something you could do until your a/c need other repairs, then you could replace the pressure switch at that time. Just a thought.
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