Ron, any updates on the 560?

PaulM

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

Not yet, I'm waiting on my mechanic to get to it.

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Over fueling can cause a cylinder to fill up with gas which will cause the engine to lock up and can bend a rod. I've known this to happen to a 500 and a 6.9.

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With best regards

Al

Finally an update... Got the car back form my mechanic (who is exptremely slow and maybe not knoledgalbe enough on these cars). After having it back home for about 6-8 months, and starting in often. He hot wired the cold start valve to a switch on interior. Went out a few days ago and it would not start again. It seems as if the big plunger in the carb isn't openning and closing as it should. It will start briefly with starting fluid of gas. It will not remain running otherwise.

Today my blink code reader arrived. I am planning to check it over tomorrow during the daytime. Any suggestions from anyone?

Ron

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i can only restate my position-find another mechanic. good luck, chuck.

This may be a dumb suggestion...

Try holding the down the air plate just a little bit during starting. This will force the fuel distributor to allow more fuel into the cylinders.

When I was re-doing my 190's fuel injectors, and a bunch of other rubber bits on the intake...I found that after I had everything back together I could not start the car. If I held down that plate a little but the fuel dist. would send more fuel in and the car would start as it turned out I had to re-adjust the lambda tower and fix a vacuum leak I created when I did not fully seat the AFM/fuel dist. unit.

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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

ron59b, you might want to take a look at this website rebuilt remanufactured mercedes benz automatic transmissions
They have a very good reputation for remanufactured transmissions. I know they are a ways away from you but are well known.
Anziani
'97 CL600 66K

Something is very wrong if you need the cold start valve to run the car and what he did was a waste of your money.

If you are getting adequate fuel flow from the pumps, the fuel distributor is not blocked or leaking internally and the EHA is good, you can disconnect the cold start valve and the car will run fine.
Ebay fuel distributors and EHA's are usually junk and just end up giving you a different issue. "Pulled from a working car" means they found it at the junkyard on a crashed car. They have no idea if it was working or not, they just assume it is.

If you really are intent on getting it running, get a remanufactured fuel distributor and new EHA flow tested from CIS Flow Tech. Based on what you describe, I would lean towards an EHA issue, or the mixture is way off, but you need a mechanic who knows these older MB's and your guy doesn't. You'll end up with more stupid stuff like wiring the cold start valve...

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

First, I agree with finding a real MB tech. Remove that BS added switch, it is a problem waiting to occur.

Next, has the top end ever been fully resealed? Lots of rubber there that can crack causing vac leaks galore. By 221k, it is long past due. This will take pulling of the intake manifold to do this, along with the full CIS system. It is 100% worth it and something you can do in a weekend. I will skip the part that you need a valve job on that mileage of an M117.

Larry at CIS Flowtech is the man when it comes to these systems. I agree on having a warrantied, bench adjusted setup installed. Buying crap from ebay will simply not help.

Toss in a fresh O2 sensor and check the duty cycle. You could have a seriously lean CIS setup causing your starting issues, BTDT.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Thanks all for your advice. I will be investigating all of your points over the next week. The intake has been completely resealed. I belive the issue of the system running too lean may have some truth. I will report back when I finish.


Happy Holidays All

Ron
Richmond, VA

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Also there are some tests which can be done as directed by the factory service manual. These can determine if a certain system is working properly or not.

One is fuel system pressure, fuel system volume, and fuel system internal leak test.

Another is a vacuum gauge test.

You can do a compression test on each cylinder.

Check the electrical characteristics of the spark system.

Check rich/lean adjustment after tune-up and replacing oxygen sensor. (Lamda - Multimeter check of duty cycle.)

And as mentioned above, check the volume flow for each cylinder from the fuel distributor.

Etc. Doing these tests is a whole lot less expensive than guessing and replacing parts. (Which can introduce new problems.)

Be aware that some parts like spark plugs *must* be factory specification or they can cause problems. (Don't go installing some wiz-bang spark plugs because some guy at the auto parts store says so. He is NOT an engineer!)

And doing regular factory recommended maintenance can resolve a lot of issues... Replace oil, air, fuel filters. Change oil. New spark plugs (correct type), distributor cap/rotor. Oxygen sensor. Etc. [AKA "Tune-Up.]