Okay, I have been reading and reading all these posts. All you windows guys must know something about putting in new glass. I figured out how to get the door panel off and I know how to vacuum up chunks of glass....now I to put in new glass. The sticky fingered theives have hit me twice this month. Once they broke out my jeep window right in front of my home and then after a nice dinner at a great mexican restaurant in Arlington Texas I was hit again. I found a window at a junk yard....Soon to be a window pro.

Hi, How do you fix it without buying a new one.
Thanks.

putting in new door glass without buyng a new piece of glass might be kinda hard. I don't think I kept all the little pieces of glass from the broken window. If I had, I guess I could have glued them all together, but it would be hard to see through.

The new part, unlike most parts for W140s, is incredibly cheap and besides it has the new updated design, correcting the design flaw from the original.

__________________
A. Rosich
CL 500, 1998
S 500 L, 1998
E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]

The rear windows of my 95 S420 don't respond properly to the switches after a couple of years (maybe longer) of inactivity. Lowering is not a problem but the movement is slow. I can raise the windows if I help the glass up. At the end of the travel there is a moment of what sounds like a gear slipping before the the motor stops. With the left rear window partially down, there is about 3 cm of vertical play in the glass. The right rear window is much more tightly in place.

Can someone help me with what the 'cheap' redesigned parts are called and possibly the part numbers?

Thanks,
Sixto
95 S420 ... $80K car full of brittle plastic gears!
87 300SDL ... $60K car with one brittle aluminum part

The cheap plastic part just holds the window to the control arm. If this part fails your window will dismount from the control arm and will be stucked at the bottom of the door.

What you described on your 95 S 420 looks more like a control arm failure (very common failure on W140s, especially on rear windows) and/or window motor failure (due to an extended unused period of time).

Any of these two case scenarios would be expensive to fix ($$$), unlike the cheap plastic part described originally on this post.

__________________
A. Rosich
CL 500, 1998
S 500 L, 1998
E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]

That's good to know... and also not

Thanks,
Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

someone mentioned that this plastic part problem was for '93 & '94's. i just tried to reset my windows from a two year nap and it sounds as if my '95 s500 rr window has broken the plastic as well.when i lowered it and then tried to raise it i thought i heard a crack(very quiet) and then it wouldn't go up.when i hit the button to put up the window i can hear a click of somesort and then nothing happens.
i'll get a better idea when i open it up but does this sound like the same thing?
thanks

__________________
'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms
'92 legend 180kms
'88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms
'87 mustang gt(gone)
'86 tbirdturbo(gone)
'85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten)

If the glass moves independently of the regulator then the sliding jaw has probably failed. Typically the glass slips into the door when the sliding jaw gives. If you can move glass a few cm but no more or if it's firmly attached to the regulator then the problem is much less likely with the $10 sliding jaw and more likely with the $200 regulator :/

In my case I was able to rehabilitate the window by helping it up and down a few times. I'm an nth removed W140 owner. I can't see spending money on a regulator for a window I lower once a year and only to check that it works.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL