While this may have been discussed before. It may be worth bring up again.

As all of you know these modern cars does not have grease fittings to grease the parts under the carrage.

Option 1: Do nothing. The manufacturer said it is a "lifetime lube"

Option 2: Drill a hold/tap put in you own grease fitting

Option 3: Use a syringe puncture a hold in the boot and lube.

What would you do and why? all have down sides.

Option 1: "lifetime lube" do you really believe that? The more important question will lubing it prevent the joint from going bad.

Option 2: I am concern if I drill metal parts from the drilling will go into the joint that I can't clean out. Is it better than not lubing at all.

Option 3: It is the easiest way to lube the joints but you pouch a hold in you boot. I suppose you can tape it up but.....

If there are more options that would be great.

But the way my cars have high years but low mileage. My 2000 ML only have 55K on it if this information helps.

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Silver Honda Accord, 2006
Silver G500, 2003
Silver SLK-320, 2002
Black ML-320, 2000
Bule Porsche 993 Targa , 1997
Silver Merkur XR4Ti, 1987

trouble is they quit making suspension parts that could be lubed.Rubber,and nylon bushing degrade in grease and oil.If you had acess to a machine shop,you might be able to make the good metal bushings.NAPA use to offer different ones with grease fittings. Its a shame they wear out so fast now.I do use silicone to make squeeks go away.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Good point. But I am assuming we are lubing it with a "grease" that is comparable to the original lube i.e. will not degrade the bushing. Unless you are saying the original lube degrade the bushing too and there is just no way to prolong the life of the parts.

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Silver Honda Accord, 2006
Silver G500, 2003
Silver SLK-320, 2002
Black ML-320, 2000
Bule Porsche 993 Targa , 1997
Silver Merkur XR4Ti, 1987

yeah oil destroys rubber. I have not tried vegetable oil,it might not destroy.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Option 1 is the best choice.

Suspension part seals are way better in keeping water out than in days past, this was the primary reason for greasing. The reason a grease fitting does not exist on sealed units is since grease can't leak out, new grease pumped in would blow the boot apart.

no I don't remember in the 70's having to replace U joints or suspension parts on any car,my Dad's Mercury never had that work on it with 300,000 miles.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Why would you need to puncture a hole? Can't you just undo the end of the rubber boot and grease it? My suggestion would be Option 4: Get a new part and remove the rubber boot and upgrade it to a Polyurethane boot. I did this to my lower ball joints on my w201.

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1990 190E 3.0L

There would some boots that are hard to undo. I am thinking about tire-rod ends (I have not tried it correct me if I am wrong, can it be done). But on the larger ones good idea.

On you other suggestion about getting new parts. Well that is really option 1: Do nothing wait until there is a problem with the part then replace it with a new one with new boots and maybe one that have grease fittings.

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Silver Honda Accord, 2006
Silver G500, 2003
Silver SLK-320, 2002
Black ML-320, 2000
Bule Porsche 993 Targa , 1997
Silver Merkur XR4Ti, 1987

How do you use silicon to make the squeeks go away do you just put it on the surface of the boot???

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Silver Honda Accord, 2006
Silver G500, 2003
Silver SLK-320, 2002
Black ML-320, 2000
Bule Porsche 993 Targa , 1997
Silver Merkur XR4Ti, 1987

"If it ain't broke..."

I have often used the grease needle method. The upper ball joints on my '97 E 300 D started squeaking. They were still tight, and require replacing the upper control arm. I pumped grease into the boot and the squeaks went away, a couple years ago. I also filled up the lowers which had been replaced before I bought the car.

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'97 E 300 D