Ismalley, check your Owner's Manual for the spark plugs specified for your engine. Modifying resistor spark plugs probably wouldn't be recommended by MB-trained techs. You are correct about the EZL. If it fails the engine will not run, and new/rebuilt ones are quite expensive. That's why you want to maintain the ignition system by-the-book. I take it you replaced the ignition wire from the coil to the distributor cap when you replaced the ignition wires even though it can be difficult.

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Fred Hoelzle

Yes, I replace all wires with Bosch brand only. The spark plugs are correct, but finding non-resistor plugs for this model is nearly impossible so I use the oe plugs that are recommended and remove the resistor out of them and add in a solid piece of straight copper. I've not had an issue with this set up before, but just to be safe I'll go nab some more plugs without converting them and see what happens. It's only about $12 for 6 plugs so not an issue, plus if this doesn't help I'll just keep the plugs for my next tune up.

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1990 190E 3.0L

The extra resistance doesnt matter. But if it teally bothers you, you can switch to inductively suppressed wires, like magnecor, and eliminate the resistance in the cable rather than the plugs.

Why is the voltage regulator only lasting a year?

What ? Do you not understand how ignition systems work...or are supposed to work ?


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[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

It's not lasting a year, I just replace it yearly just because it's free and it only takes me 5 mins. I do a lot of preventative maintenance on my car so a lot of parts that are common wear items rarely get worn down to the point of failure. Reason I do this is for peace of mind, I have the time to do it, and most of the replacements are free, I.e. Alternator/voltage regulator, spark plug wires, brakes, etc.

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1990 190E 3.0L

This made me open up my distrubutor cap today, it looks exactly the same the center pin is broken and is sort of melted. Contact points are also all corroded. Might have found my misfire at startup problem. Funny thing is I bought a new cap and rotor last year ??

The delicate center carbon contact is easily damaged when installing the cap due to the high ridge that it has to clear on the rotor. Cap must be forward enough to clear and then installed straight on. Room is very tight especially on the W201.

As far as the availability of none resistor plugs, I buy online NGK BP5EFS plugs for my M103 from one of the UK sellers. Price is excellent and shipping to Canada is very reasonable (unlike from the US) and I get them in about a week or even less.
I've been using these NGK plugs for about 10 years and I'm happy with them.

As far as replacing the alternator regulator and wires every year, unless you are doing 100k miles a year, it appears like an abuse of a lifetime warranty (no offense intended).

Depends on how you look at it. If I wait until the part fails it will be too late and most likely at the most inconvenient time, say Friday just after the parts store closes and probably somewhere away from home.

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1990 190E 3.0L

Got a pic?

The contact points on the edges of the cap get pitted, this is normal.

I can't place a diagnosis on the center pin without seeing it.

I kind of figured this was happening but wanted you to say it.

What is this, the "Minority Report" ? "These parts are being returned due to future failures".

You are committing "insurance" fraud, and making it more difficult for those with legitimate failed parts to be taken care of. Read the actual warranty and see if it states that returning good parts that you think might fail in the future is covered.

And, I'm betting some of your car problems are self induced by randomly changing parts.

I replace parts when they get towards the expected end of life not once a year for a part that should last a decade or more.

I also put about 25k miles a year on my car, which are not all highway miles, but that's besides the point. I've experienced having to pay for things during an unexpected breakdown or not having a vehicle because a part failed on a Friday night which left me without a car to get to work the following Monday and Tuesday. So I really don't think of it in terms of fraud. Especially when a voltage regulator goes out and I'm being told that it is "built into" the alternator and the entire unit must be replaced as a whole, while I'm holding the failed regulator in my hand. Anyways, I have had some self-induced issues with my car however I do not believe this is one of them.

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1990 190E 3.0L