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#1
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W124 Rotor suggestions
It's time to replace my rotors on the wagon and am looking at the Centric High Carbon brand. Anyone have experience with these? Are they suitable for daily driver such as mine? Feedback appreciated.
Dale
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Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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#2
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I have them on my dd Subaru. They do everything you want rotors to do. I also used centric ceramic pads, which are very long lasting.
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#3
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Okaaay. There's one for Centric! Thanks
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Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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Recommend slotted /or grooved rotors they prevent warping
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#5
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I would love to have cryo treated rotors,but Centrics and their pads are good.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#6
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85 DSEL, if you don't want to buy genuine MB rotors then I recommend ATE coated rotors. You may find that genuine MB rotors from your local dealer are priced comparably to other brands.
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Fred Hoelzle |
#7
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Quote:
Quote:
Now, should I or Shouldn't I call MB to see.....?!
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Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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#8
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Quote:
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon. |
#9
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I'm also planning to replace the brake hydraulic hoses at all four corners when doing the brakes and I'm not 100% on how best to go about bleeding air from the lines/calipers. Do I simply do it the old fashion way with the help of another person pumping and holding the pedal as I release the bleed screw?
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Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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#10
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Quote:
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon. |
#11
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Bump this! very true.
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#12
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My Indy tech advised against using drilled rotors when I asked him about them once upon a time! His opinion I believe was that the holes eventually get filled with brake dust and are at that point not much better than non drilled. So, I've stayed away from them for that reason, plus, my experience with plain vented front rotors has been very good. What I'm trying to say is that I don't think I need a 'better' stopping brake based on the driving style this car gets. Thanks for your reply!
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Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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#13
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Depends on how you drive.
The '95 wagon had some of the larger brakes, upsized rears and 4-piston upsized fronts, and unless you're planning track time with the full rated load (~1000lbs) you will likely not overheat the stock brakes. Slotted, drilled, etc. are fine and most buy them for looks. For your car it is not necessary and will likely only create faster wear (holes and slots will "clean" the pad surface as you brake, meaning better grip but shorter life). Most rotors "warp" from improper installation or poorly manufactured castings. If the castings are from a cheap source they can have cast-in stresses that will stress-relieve when heat-cycled, and this will give you the warp that most people experience in brake rotors (and drums). Proper rotors are cast with properly controlled processes, stress-relieved before machining, and will last you a very long time. Unless you're looking for the red-caliper racing look, I'd suggest OE (assuming OE is still OE quality, which is a crap-shoot on a 20+year old car) or a high-quality alternative like Brembo.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#14
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W124 Rotor suggestions
Quote:
I have done three replacement cycles on the front since I bought the car in 2009, and IIRC, the first set of rotors were in fact Brembo, then the second was ATE, and now currently I went with the Centric brand. I can't remember ever having a warped rotor since that is something I simply cannot tolerate! So far, so good with the Centric rotors - they are very smooth and seem to have very nice stopping ability. The ONLY thing that slightly concerns me is my choice for pads. I'm on Rock Auto emailing list and I receive "Wholesaler Closeouts" notices from time to time. The latest one had all these brake components and such so there were several pad set selections but they were limited. I hope it doesn't end up that I had a momentary lapse of better judgement for buying a set of pads that cost less than $10! The write up on them was convincing enough for me that they are indeed a proper choice for the car. We'll see! I think they were "Parts Master" brand. Never heard of them, but I'm taking a chance...
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Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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#15
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I've gotten good service from Pagid brand pads. Not sure how they compare for high-performance use but for street I felt that they were good quality with good grip and no noticeable fade, some dust but I washed wheels frequently so didn't really notice much.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
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