W124 Rotor suggestions

[85 DSEL]

It's time to replace my rotors on the wagon and am looking at the Centric High Carbon brand. Anyone have experience with these? Are they suitable for daily driver such as mine? Feedback appreciated.

Dale

[Mxfrank]

I have them on my dd Subaru. They do everything you want rotors to do. I also used centric ceramic pads, which are very long lasting.

[85 DSEL]

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

I have them on my dd Subaru. They do everything you want rotors to do. I also used centric ceramic pads, which are very long lasting.

Okaaay. There's one for Centric! Thanks

[nulu]

Recommend slotted /or grooved rotors they prevent warping

[oldsinner111]

I would love to have cryo treated rotors,but Centrics and their pads are good.

[Ferdman]

85 DSEL, if you don't want to buy genuine MB rotors then I recommend ATE coated rotors. You may find that genuine MB rotors from your local dealer are priced comparably to other brands.

[85 DSEL]

Originally Posted by oldsinner111

I would love to have cryo treated rotors,but Centrics and their pads are good.

Not sure what the "cryo treated" process is or what benefits one can expect from it...

Originally Posted by Ferdman

85 DSEL, if you don't want to buy genuine MB rotors then I recommend ATE coated rotors. You may find that genuine MB rotors from your local dealer are priced comparably to other brands.

Well I didn't even think to call for a quote but the Centric High Carbon Series 125 were $57 each and free shipping from TireRack so I WENT FOR IT!

Now, should I or Shouldn't I call MB to see.....?!

[w123fanman]

Originally Posted by 85 DSEL

Not sure what the "cryo treated" process is or what benefits one can expect from it...



Well I didn't even think to call for a quote but the Centric High Carbon Series 125 were $57 each and free shipping from TireRack so I WENT FOR IT!

Now, should I or Shouldn't I call MB to see.....?!

You could call them, the cost from my dealer is $65 each for the fronts, you could get them for around $50 each through a wholesale parts department.

[85 DSEL]

I'm also planning to replace the brake hydraulic hoses at all four corners when doing the brakes and I'm not 100% on how best to go about bleeding air from the lines/calipers. Do I simply do it the old fashion way with the help of another person pumping and holding the pedal as I release the bleed screw?

[w123fanman]

Originally Posted by 85 DSEL

I'm also planning to replace the brake hydraulic hoses at all four corners when doing the brakes and I'm not 100% on how best to go about bleeding air from the lines/calipers. Do I simply do it the old fashion way with the help of another person pumping and holding the pedal as I release the bleed screw?

I've personally never done it that way, I use a Motive Power Bleeder with the wheels off, clear vinyl tubing going from the bleeder screw to a clear reservoir (the hose is submerged in brake fluid) and a rubber mallet to tap the calipers as the fluid goes through. That seems to be the most foolproof method, unless the sensor caps on your reservoir are bad and then fluid can start shooting out once you get the system pressurized. I think they fixed that by the W124, I just can't remember what car it was as I have bled so many Mercedes.

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by nulu

Recommend slotted /or grooved rotors they prevent warping

Bump this! very true.

[85 DSEL]

Originally Posted by Dmitry at Pelican Parts

Bump this! very true.

My Indy tech advised against using drilled rotors when I asked him about them once upon a time! His opinion I believe was that the holes eventually get filled with brake dust and are at that point not much better than non drilled. So, I've stayed away from them for that reason, plus, my experience with plain vented front rotors has been very good. What I'm trying to say is that I don't think I need a 'better' stopping brake based on the driving style this car gets. Thanks for your reply!

[babymog]

Depends on how you drive.

The '95 wagon had some of the larger brakes, upsized rears and 4-piston upsized fronts, and unless you're planning track time with the full rated load (~1000lbs) you will likely not overheat the stock brakes.

Slotted, drilled, etc. are fine and most buy them for looks. For your car it is not necessary and will likely only create faster wear (holes and slots will "clean" the pad surface as you brake, meaning better grip but shorter life).

Most rotors "warp" from improper installation or poorly manufactured castings. If the castings are from a cheap source they can have cast-in stresses that will stress-relieve when heat-cycled, and this will give you the warp that most people experience in brake rotors (and drums). Proper rotors are cast with properly controlled processes, stress-relieved before machining, and will last you a very long time.

Unless you're looking for the red-caliper racing look, I'd suggest OE (assuming OE is still OE quality, which is a crap-shoot on a 20+year old car) or a high-quality alternative like Brembo.

[85 DSEL]

Originally Posted by babymog

Depends on how you drive.



The '95 wagon had some of the larger brakes, upsized rears and 4-piston upsized fronts, and unless you're planning track time with the full rated load (~1000lbs) you will likely not overheat the stock brakes.



Slotted, drilled, etc. are fine and most buy them for looks. For your car it is not necessary and will likely only create faster wear (holes and slots will "clean" the pad surface as you brake, meaning better grip but shorter life).



Most rotors "warp" from improper installation or poorly manufactured castings. If the castings are from a cheap source they can have cast-in stresses that will stress-relieve when heat-cycled, and this will give you the warp that most people experience in brake rotors (and drums). Proper rotors are cast with properly controlled processes, stress-relieved before machining, and will last you a very long time.



Unless you're looking for the red-caliper racing look, I'd suggest OE (assuming OE is still OE quality, which is a crap-shoot on a 20+year old car) or a high-quality alternative like Brembo.

I have done three replacement cycles on the front since I bought the car in 2009, and IIRC, the first set of rotors were in fact Brembo, then the second was ATE, and now currently I went with the Centric brand. I can't remember ever having a warped rotor since that is something I simply cannot tolerate! So far, so good with the Centric rotors - they are very smooth and seem to have very nice stopping ability.



The ONLY thing that slightly concerns me is my choice for pads. I'm on Rock Auto emailing list and I receive "Wholesaler Closeouts" notices from time to time. The latest one had all these brake components and such so there were several pad set selections but they were limited. I hope it doesn't end up that I had a momentary lapse of better judgement for buying a set of pads that cost less than $10! The write up on them was convincing enough for me that they are indeed a proper choice for the car. We'll see! I think they were "Parts Master" brand. Never heard of them, but I'm taking a chance...

[babymog]

I've gotten good service from Pagid brand pads. Not sure how they compare for high-performance use but for street I felt that they were good quality with good grip and no noticeable fade, some dust but I washed wheels frequently so didn't really notice much.