Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-03-2016, 05:04 PM
85 DSEL's Avatar
Documented User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 1,027
W124 Rotor suggestions

It's time to replace my rotors on the wagon and am looking at the Centric High Carbon brand. Anyone have experience with these? Are they suitable for daily driver such as mine? Feedback appreciated.

Dale

__________________
1995 W124 Wagon

Dale

1995 E320 Wagon 185K
1988 260e Sedan 135K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
-----------------------------
2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-03-2016, 05:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,630
I have them on my dd Subaru. They do everything you want rotors to do. I also used centric ceramic pads, which are very long lasting.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-03-2016, 06:14 PM
85 DSEL's Avatar
Documented User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 1,027
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
I have them on my dd Subaru. They do everything you want rotors to do. I also used centric ceramic pads, which are very long lasting.
Okaaay. There's one for Centric! Thanks
__________________
1995 W124 Wagon

Dale

1995 E320 Wagon 185K
1988 260e Sedan 135K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
-----------------------------
2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-03-2016, 10:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: los angeles
Posts: 675
Recommend slotted /or grooved rotors they prevent warping
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-04-2016, 07:55 AM
oldsinner111's Avatar
love all animals
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: bristol,tn
Posts: 5,715
I would love to have cryo treated rotors,but Centrics and their pads are good.
__________________
seems there is hope after all when folks come together
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-04-2016, 09:21 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Southeastern PA
Posts: 3,035
85 DSEL, if you don't want to buy genuine MB rotors then I recommend ATE coated rotors. You may find that genuine MB rotors from your local dealer are priced comparably to other brands.
__________________
Fred Hoelzle
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-04-2016, 04:13 PM
85 DSEL's Avatar
Documented User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 1,027
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsinner111 View Post
I would love to have cryo treated rotors,but Centrics and their pads are good.
Not sure what the "cryo treated" process is or what benefits one can expect from it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferdman View Post
85 DSEL, if you don't want to buy genuine MB rotors then I recommend ATE coated rotors. You may find that genuine MB rotors from your local dealer are priced comparably to other brands.
Well I didn't even think to call for a quote but the Centric High Carbon Series 125 were $57 each and free shipping from TireRack so I WENT FOR IT!

Now, should I or Shouldn't I call MB to see.....?!
__________________
1995 W124 Wagon

Dale

1995 E320 Wagon 185K
1988 260e Sedan 135K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
-----------------------------
2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-04-2016, 04:51 PM
w123fanman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Georgia Tech, Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,543
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85 DSEL View Post
Not sure what the "cryo treated" process is or what benefits one can expect from it...



Well I didn't even think to call for a quote but the Centric High Carbon Series 125 were $57 each and free shipping from TireRack so I WENT FOR IT!

Now, should I or Shouldn't I call MB to see.....?!
You could call them, the cost from my dealer is $65 each for the fronts, you could get them for around $50 each through a wholesale parts department.
__________________
80 300SD 183K
83 300D manual 100K chassis
86 Yugo GV 48K
88 Yugo GVX 9K
90 300D 230K
90 Lexus LS400 189k
91 F150 4.6 4v 160K
93 190E 3.0 Sportline Limited Edition 230K
93 190E 2.6 Sportline Limited Edition 91K
96 MGM LS 242K- RIP
03 Sprinter Passenger 220K
06 MGM LS 105K-sold
Parts cars:
77 240D Auto-RIP
79 300SD- RIP
80 300SD
83 240D-RIP
85 240D-RIP
87 190D-RIP
91 190E 2.3- RIP
93 190E 2.6-RIP
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-05-2016, 11:30 PM
85 DSEL's Avatar
Documented User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 1,027
I'm also planning to replace the brake hydraulic hoses at all four corners when doing the brakes and I'm not 100% on how best to go about bleeding air from the lines/calipers. Do I simply do it the old fashion way with the help of another person pumping and holding the pedal as I release the bleed screw?
__________________
1995 W124 Wagon

Dale

1995 E320 Wagon 185K
1988 260e Sedan 135K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
-----------------------------
2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-06-2016, 12:24 AM
w123fanman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Georgia Tech, Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,543
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85 DSEL View Post
I'm also planning to replace the brake hydraulic hoses at all four corners when doing the brakes and I'm not 100% on how best to go about bleeding air from the lines/calipers. Do I simply do it the old fashion way with the help of another person pumping and holding the pedal as I release the bleed screw?
I've personally never done it that way, I use a Motive Power Bleeder with the wheels off, clear vinyl tubing going from the bleeder screw to a clear reservoir (the hose is submerged in brake fluid) and a rubber mallet to tap the calipers as the fluid goes through. That seems to be the most foolproof method, unless the sensor caps on your reservoir are bad and then fluid can start shooting out once you get the system pressurized. I think they fixed that by the W124, I just can't remember what car it was as I have bled so many Mercedes.
__________________
80 300SD 183K
83 300D manual 100K chassis
86 Yugo GV 48K
88 Yugo GVX 9K
90 300D 230K
90 Lexus LS400 189k
91 F150 4.6 4v 160K
93 190E 3.0 Sportline Limited Edition 230K
93 190E 2.6 Sportline Limited Edition 91K
96 MGM LS 242K- RIP
03 Sprinter Passenger 220K
06 MGM LS 105K-sold
Parts cars:
77 240D Auto-RIP
79 300SD- RIP
80 300SD
83 240D-RIP
85 240D-RIP
87 190D-RIP
91 190E 2.3- RIP
93 190E 2.6-RIP
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 10-07-2016, 05:22 PM
Administrator
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,816
Quote:
Originally Posted by nulu View Post
Recommend slotted /or grooved rotors they prevent warping
Bump this! very true.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 10-13-2016, 07:16 AM
85 DSEL's Avatar
Documented User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 1,027
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmitry at Pelican Parts View Post
Bump this! very true.
My Indy tech advised against using drilled rotors when I asked him about them once upon a time! His opinion I believe was that the holes eventually get filled with brake dust and are at that point not much better than non drilled. So, I've stayed away from them for that reason, plus, my experience with plain vented front rotors has been very good. What I'm trying to say is that I don't think I need a 'better' stopping brake based on the driving style this car gets. Thanks for your reply!
__________________
1995 W124 Wagon

Dale

1995 E320 Wagon 185K
1988 260e Sedan 135K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
-----------------------------
2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 10-13-2016, 08:32 AM
babymog's Avatar
Loose Cannon - No Balls
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northeast Indiana
Posts: 10,767
Depends on how you drive.

The '95 wagon had some of the larger brakes, upsized rears and 4-piston upsized fronts, and unless you're planning track time with the full rated load (~1000lbs) you will likely not overheat the stock brakes.

Slotted, drilled, etc. are fine and most buy them for looks. For your car it is not necessary and will likely only create faster wear (holes and slots will "clean" the pad surface as you brake, meaning better grip but shorter life).

Most rotors "warp" from improper installation or poorly manufactured castings. If the castings are from a cheap source they can have cast-in stresses that will stress-relieve when heat-cycled, and this will give you the warp that most people experience in brake rotors (and drums). Proper rotors are cast with properly controlled processes, stress-relieved before machining, and will last you a very long time.

Unless you're looking for the red-caliper racing look, I'd suggest OE (assuming OE is still OE quality, which is a crap-shoot on a 20+year old car) or a high-quality alternative like Brembo.
__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 10-13-2016, 09:07 AM
85 DSEL's Avatar
Documented User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 1,027
W124 Rotor suggestions

Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Depends on how you drive.



The '95 wagon had some of the larger brakes, upsized rears and 4-piston upsized fronts, and unless you're planning track time with the full rated load (~1000lbs) you will likely not overheat the stock brakes.



Slotted, drilled, etc. are fine and most buy them for looks. For your car it is not necessary and will likely only create faster wear (holes and slots will "clean" the pad surface as you brake, meaning better grip but shorter life).



Most rotors "warp" from improper installation or poorly manufactured castings. If the castings are from a cheap source they can have cast-in stresses that will stress-relieve when heat-cycled, and this will give you the warp that most people experience in brake rotors (and drums). Proper rotors are cast with properly controlled processes, stress-relieved before machining, and will last you a very long time.



Unless you're looking for the red-caliper racing look, I'd suggest OE (assuming OE is still OE quality, which is a crap-shoot on a 20+year old car) or a high-quality alternative like Brembo.


I have done three replacement cycles on the front since I bought the car in 2009, and IIRC, the first set of rotors were in fact Brembo, then the second was ATE, and now currently I went with the Centric brand. I can't remember ever having a warped rotor since that is something I simply cannot tolerate! So far, so good with the Centric rotors - they are very smooth and seem to have very nice stopping ability.



The ONLY thing that slightly concerns me is my choice for pads. I'm on Rock Auto emailing list and I receive "Wholesaler Closeouts" notices from time to time. The latest one had all these brake components and such so there were several pad set selections but they were limited. I hope it doesn't end up that I had a momentary lapse of better judgement for buying a set of pads that cost less than $10! The write up on them was convincing enough for me that they are indeed a proper choice for the car. We'll see! I think they were "Parts Master" brand. Never heard of them, but I'm taking a chance...
__________________
1995 W124 Wagon

Dale

1995 E320 Wagon 185K
1988 260e Sedan 135K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
-----------------------------
2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 10-13-2016, 09:17 AM
babymog's Avatar
Loose Cannon - No Balls
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northeast Indiana
Posts: 10,767
I've gotten good service from Pagid brand pads. Not sure how they compare for high-performance use but for street I felt that they were good quality with good grip and no noticeable fade, some dust but I washed wheels frequently so didn't really notice much.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page