Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Obviously you know nothing about the bottom ends of the M116/7s of this generation. You are the one that should be doing a search for information.
I vote for the top end. This style V8 beats the hell out of the top end every 100k, bottom ends do not go bad on them. Ask any tech. Only issue is the initial up front labor due to the block usually needing Helicoils. Once the block has the steel threads, top ends are easy.
Remember, I did a top end on my 300SEL around 270k, car has 320k on it now. Cylinder walls were beautiful and I have 160-170psi on all six...and the M103 did not have the Alusil linings these V8s have installed.
One of the shop owners on here had a customer's 420 that had around 700k before a rod bearing failed from what I recall. Steve Brotherton I believe.
Just one example - Lifespan of an M117?
TXV seals are not super hard. 134A is just going to leak due to molecular size. Run R12 since the rest of the system is new or R152A for R12 head pressures and $4/can.
Think of it this way Kris, if you spend say $4k for the top end... what can you buy that is worth a damn for $4k that does not need $5k put into it? |
I own 2 M117 cars currently, both need engines, and have worked on a wide variety of cars. I can tell you that if OP has a car that is burning oil valves and valve seals are not the only thing that are on their way out. Are there nice high mileage engines out there? Definitely. The thing is those engines typically don't consume oil. I would not risk the cost of having a shop do a top end on a high mileage engine that may have possible bottom end issues. Not when you can buy a complete engine for about a grand.
For every engine that makes it to 500,000 miles be it an older Mercedes, a Cummins, or Honda there are 20 that gave up the ghost at 200,000 miles.
12-01-2016, 10:13 AM
Threaded Mode
