I got an issue regarding these 2 half moon gaskets that came with the valve cover gaskets kit. I found the location where half moon gasket goes to. Right behind the cylinder head near the firewall. The distance between the firewall and the cylinder head is less than 2 inches. I tried to removed first by hand and the restricted movement on my end but it would not bulge and very tight fit. I even tried to ply them out using needle-nose pliers but the restricted space and location make it impossible. Anyone out there have a solution to this issue without taking the cylinder head off?

They should lift right out once the valve cover is removed. Perhaps they have hardened and are sticking or maybe someone used RTV to glue them in (not factory).

Rick76, thanks for responding. Nope, the half moon gaskets is on the cylinder head even though I removed the valve cover. Someone suggested using a bent needle nose pliers but I am not sure if I have enough room to get them out. I guess I have to go to store to pick up these bent needle nose pliers. Anyone out there have a solution to this issue with success? Are any parts to remove to make room without taking cylinder head off?

I thought of using a long straight screwdriver and a hammer to pound through half moon gasket and breaking it up into smaller pieces. Will that work without damaging the cylinder head or the slot in which the half moon gasket goes in? Just thinking out loud. Any comments/feedback on this issue?

What you could try is getting a piece of wood dowel and with a hammer tap one side of the gasket to make it rotate in the half moon opening, breaking it loose.

I'd be nervous about using a srewdriver as you could easily damage the aluminum with one bad move. Also if it comes out in pieces you run the risk of getting bits in the engine.

Rick76. Thanks for responding. Yes, I would be nervous, too, if I use a screwdriver and hammer to pry the half moon gasket resulting all kinds of problems as you mentioned in your last post.

I will go ahead and try your suggestion using a wood dowel thick enough without breaking the wood dowel when pounding with a hammer. Will a punching tool do better than a wood dowel?

Dmorgan any chance that you can fill in your profile , so other members looking to help you know what car you have . And to put it in your post what car you have .

optimusprime. I just updated my profile. I have a 1994 Mercedes E320 wagon. Thanks.

X2 for Rick76's suggestion tap it so that it rolls out. Alternate sides to work it loose. Could also try grabbing it with locking pliers and rocking it loose. Stuff any openings in the head with clean rags first. Don't try punching it through with a hammer and screwdriver, it could break something. Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

dmorgan, you could try using Channel Lock pliers to gently remove the half-moon gaskets. When installing the new half-moon gaskets recommend using a light film of sealant between the top of the half-moon gasket and the valve cove gasket. I say this because I just removed the valve cover gasket on a 1995 E320 engine, and noticed the indie had applied some sealant in that location when he replaced the valve cover gasket.

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Fred Hoelzle

Sorry about the delay in the updates due to the cold weather lately. First, I thought about using the dowel to hammer the half moon gasket in order to rotate and pop it out. In comparing to use the hook and pick, I prefer to use the hook and pick set since it was much better in terms of space availability and lessen the potential damage on the clyinder head and elsewhere near the engine if using the dowel. I was finally abled to removed both of those half moon gasket located in the rear cylinder head. HOORAY!!! I used a hook and pick 90 degree angle I bought at Walmart (the only one left). I pressed the hook in the center of the half mooned gasket (the rubber center) and it was a very hard press to make sure the hook goes in. I then pulled up the half moon straight up making sure there was enough space and movement without interfering the wires in between (wire harness, Crank position sensor and the Postive battery cable). Pulling up the half moon gasket was a little tough thing to do but I got both of them out in one solid piece each. Upon inspecting the old half moon gaskets, both were rock hard solid. In addition, I noticed some white flimsy strip in what appears to be silicone gasket underneath inside the bottom of the half moon gaskets. Whether that is the reason for being so tough/hard to pull them out remain to been seen.

Now I can go ahead and put in the new half moon gaskets in the rear cylinder. Right now I am debating myself whether to put in RTV gasket maker on the half moon gaskets or not. Some people wrote saying put in some RTV in half moon gasket along the edges. What edges specifically on the half moon gasket? Any other areas to put in RTV gasket maker on the half moon gasket? Others say don't put any RTV anywhere on the half moon gasket, just put the half moon gasket in its place and nothing else. Any comments/feedback on the RTV gasket maker on the half moon gasket issue from fellow members are greatly appreciate.

I do not use RTV on the half moon gaskets and have not had a problem with oil seepage in my 95 E320. None was used at the factory.

I put in the half mooned gaskets inside behind the top cylinder where without using RTV. After putting everything together, I fired up the motor and started running immediately. Left the motor running while checking to see if there is any oil leak around the engine. So far, no oil leaks. No smoke coming out the exhaust tail pipe, either. Everything looks good and running real good. Except for a small nagging issue. The smell of burning oil is still there not as much as before. Will look into this issue. Also no blue smoke either.