q:

At this point the search turns to looking for an inadvertent connection; frayed wires, a piece of something conductive between two pins in a connector block, etc., etc.
Easiest places to start looking: 1) the diagnostic socket with the round screw-on cover on the left side of the engine bay (pin 5 goes to the ignition coil & EZL), 2) X26 is a 12 pin in-line connector block found in a bracket behind the fuse box. (pin 1 is ignition circuit). Wires could be touching in either of those locations. While you are at the fuse box, remove the two fuses in the holder in front of the two row relay cubes.

I have to go do a few other things tonight but i will start the search in the morning. I suppose the amount of possible places to look is quite high hopefully something jumps out at me. If you have any other ideas on possible locations to look i am very much so open to them.

q, the OVP relay is silver with a fuse on top.

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Fred Hoelzle

Ok so i looked around for a an hour or so trying a few different things. The blower motor fuse had been kind of melted away because it had power to it all night(the night the problems started not last night) but it didnt actually blow.So i figured i would check all the fuses if they were getting power from it somehow. I took all the fuses out and put them back in 1 by 1 starting and stopping the car inbetween. After putting them all back in the car starts and stops as it should. Is it possible that there was just some computer that needed to be reset? should i feel comfortable putting everything back together?

Im not sure if bumping this thread is the best way to go about this but i figured i would so anyone can see what i have already tried. As i said in post above i fixed the problem and it was running fine until today were the problem happend again. It ran for 10min then shut off with the key out i started it back up and it shut off normal.Even when i drove it back home it again shut off normal. Is there some computer that is going bad slowly that needs to be changed?