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  #1  
Old 05-24-2002, 08:08 PM
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Location: Falls Church, VA
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Stubborn Rear Brake Rotors o n 300E

1986 300E,

Having replaced my front pads and rotors recently, I went after the rears today. The calipers are off, retaining bolts removed, parking brakes adjusted all the way "in," but the rotors will not budge. I have sprayed penetrating oil on the hub, and given both sides a pretty good whack with a hammer - no luck.

Are pullers ever used to get these rotors off?

TIA
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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #2  
Old 05-25-2002, 04:06 PM
za_w124_200e
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time ...

I had similar trouble in removing the rear rotors. After confirming that the parking brake was disengaged and the rotor spinning freely after adjusting the brakes all the way in, I dripped some engine oil on each wheel stud as well as the opening where the small allan screw that holds the rotor to the hub came out of.

I slowly rotated the rotor allowing oil to seep in. Whilst turning I tapped the rotor with a mallet and a piece of wood (too scared to damag the rotor with a metal to mettal banging). This eventually freed the rotor.

Keep banging and turning the rotor. With a soft surface protecting the rotor you need to bash quite forcefully - it's the shock created that will free the rotor.

happy banging

L
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  #3  
Old 05-25-2002, 08:16 PM
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u da man, Louis.

I sprayed penetrating oil as you suggested and let everything sit overnight. Gave the rotors some good whacks with a mallet, turning about 90% between whacks. After 5-6 good blows, both came off. There was a fair amount of rust between the flanges and the rotors, and around the hub.

Look me up if you come to DC and I'll buy you a beer!
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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2002, 03:13 PM
za_w124_200e
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Talking glad i could help !!

question that now comes to mind:

how do the pro's get the darn thing off without waiting 8 hours for the oil to to their thing ..
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  #5  
Old 05-26-2002, 08:21 PM
atikovi
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They beat it useless to get it off and tell you that the rotor is bad.
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2002, 08:39 PM
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use the puller

1. I use a puller myself see this post : Rear brake disc removal

2. Did the hammer thing years ago and stop because I’m now wiser, things could get damage around there…

Thai GI sends…
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  #7  
Old 05-27-2002, 02:41 AM
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I use a sledgehammer with a curbweight of at least 2kg and give the disc a few good whacks on the "drum" part while applying pressure with my prybar between the disc and something sturdy behind it.
Haven't failed me yet.
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/Per

MB E300TDT -98
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  #8  
Old 05-27-2002, 02:51 AM
Swedish Diesler
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
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I use a sledgehammer with a curbweight of at least 2kg and give the disc a few good whacks on the "drum" part while applying pressure with my prybar between the disc and something sturdy behind it.
Haven't failed me yet.
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/Per

MB E300TDT -98
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  #9  
Old 05-28-2002, 11:27 AM
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A (very) light coating of anti-seize paste (or any heavy grease) applied to the mating surface can prevent this problem in the future. Not too much- you do not want the grease to get on the braking surfaces.

Of course, sometimes it is the parking-brake shoes that are holding things up, especially if they have dug themselves a ridge to grab on.
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