Stretch, I thought the same thing. I dug my pressure tester out of storage last week. I soaked the injectors in powerful clear for a few days, but haven't tested them.

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84 300sd 2.47 dif 360k
26 mpg needs lots of love
given to me in pitty

89 civic hatchback auto 140k
33mpgs soon to be low to mid 40's
been in the family since mile 1

85 300d with unknown knock. driven over 30k with knock and still going. sold for $800

I got the fuel distributor working! Fuel doesn't over flow unless i presses on the fuel plate. The car still wont start though, its supper close. Its still backfiring out the intake manifold pretty bad. Do i need to adjust the fuel air mixer using that screw with the ball bearing in it?

__________________
84 300sd 2.47 dif 360k
26 mpg needs lots of love
given to me in pitty

89 civic hatchback auto 140k
33mpgs soon to be low to mid 40's
been in the family since mile 1

85 300d with unknown knock. driven over 30k with knock and still going. sold for $800

Do you have all of the Idle Control Valve vacuum hoses tightly connected....top and bottom? Be sure to check under the intake boot to make sure it's pushed in tight.

Good news if the ball bearing is still in the mixture adjustment, means it hasn't been messed with.

__________________

1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

I wouldn't play with that screw just yet.

The fuel shouldn't come up when there is no air flow going across the plate.

As soon as the engine is cranked air gets drawn across this plate (because the engine behaves like an air pump) and the setting should be about right.

I think you are going to be better off testing the cold start valve before fiddling with that screw. (After doing the vacuum hose checks as mentioned above)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Well I looked under the intake and Judy bumping the hose caused it t fall off. I put a hose clamp on it until I an get a new one. After playing around I was able to get the car to start for half a second and it dies. I decided to check the light codes to see if it had any. I got a code 4 (the air sensor under the fuel injection unit, and a code 9 ( EHA) could either of these cause the csr to not run or change the timing to cause a back fire? Ive search and found that these can cause idle issues, but nothing on not starting. I really don't want to buy a new EHA if I csn avoid it. I don't plan to keep the mechanical injection system once I know the tranny works and the engine is solid

__________________
84 300sd 2.47 dif 360k
26 mpg needs lots of love
given to me in pitty

89 civic hatchback auto 140k
33mpgs soon to be low to mid 40's
been in the family since mile 1

85 300d with unknown knock. driven over 30k with knock and still going. sold for $800

The ICV vacuum hoses have to be on and tight (no leaks) all the way to the intake.
Sounds like you're making some progress.

__________________

1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

I got it to run! i started to move the spark plug wires around after reading on form that someone had a really weird ignition timing compared to the 1-3-4-2 that the book says. I dont know if its my cap that is wrong or something else, but its running well at 1-2-3-4. I'm just glad that its running, now to the fun stuff! Thank you for your guys help!

__________________
84 300sd 2.47 dif 360k
26 mpg needs lots of love
given to me in pitty

89 civic hatchback auto 140k
33mpgs soon to be low to mid 40's
been in the family since mile 1

85 300d with unknown knock. driven over 30k with knock and still going. sold for $800

Hey?

1 - 2 - 3 - 4

Mad...

...are you sure? If so there's got to be a reason for this - let me think about it...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Not knowing the history of the car, i cant really say what the last owners did. I'm wondering if the cap is numbered wrong, everything i saw on line told me the firing order of the motor, but didnt compare it to distributor cap. I took this picture from a different thread, but thats how my cap is numbered also.

__________________
84 300sd 2.47 dif 360k
26 mpg needs lots of love
given to me in pitty

89 civic hatchback auto 140k
33mpgs soon to be low to mid 40's
been in the family since mile 1

85 300d with unknown knock. driven over 30k with knock and still going. sold for $800

See posts #3 & #4.

Re: "1-2-3-4"
The words of Daniel Patrick Moynihan apply:
"We are all entitled to our own opinions; we are not entitled to our own facts".

If you look at the cap in your picture and think of the direction in which the rotor in the distributor rotates I can see 1 - 3 - 4 - 2

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!