No I have not check it, but.... do you really think that working OVP is needed to start a car?

I must tell you, no it's not. Engine without it, will be running rough and it will take a while to start it, but will be working. Even if you take of whole ke jetronic unit and put some gas or starter fluid diretlcy into throttle body, engine must to "make some noise"

Besides, OVP in this car is working correctly. IAC is opening, cold start injector is spraying some fuel and fuel pump is also working

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Five years...
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You have fuel and spark, so the only qestion is timing. I would verify cam timing using a dial gauge to determine true TDC and go from there.

On mine the fuel pump relay is integrated into the computer. I went back and reread your original post and saw you said the injectors are spraying.

I was at pick n pull today. I pulled up on the Crank position sensor and it actually fell apart with little effort. I believe the car will not run if that isn't working.

Using dial gauge? Can you tell me more about this method ?

Of course timing is set correctly, engine on TDC, camshaft pointer is in correct position and rotor mark to 1 cyl



I think that there is some problem with ignition timing but I don't know how to check that sparks are in good positions at correct time


Of course, there is no any chance to start the engine without it

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Five years...
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Makes no sense how physical timing could be off when you said it was running fine in the old car. Unless you took the head off or otherwise removed the timing chain from the cam sprocket.

Agree.

BUT.... I forgot to tell you abouth one thing. I have bought that engine without flywheel, is there any posibility to put it in on place in wrong position?

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Five years...
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The flywheel would have had a dowel in there ,,and if it was in there it would be impossible to put it on in the wrong place,Do you remember the dowel on assembly? And i dont care how good you are .You wont be the first to refurb the fuel distributor or metering unit only to mess it up .Its a tricky job ..But you can rule that out if your fuel pressure top and bottom are right .. On the fuel distributor you will see a large pipe ,this is the return to tank pipe .Remove the pipe and do you have fuel in there ?.Another thing is i sent you a picture of HT locations in the distributor ,are yours in the same order ?and did you check it out

I would remove all the new parts and fit the old ones back on. The parts that are new or secondhanf must be of the same number of the one removed ,not i number off .The right part for the engine will work only .

You right, there was a dowel.

I don't even want to rebuild fuel distributor because I'm sure that is (and was) working correctly

Of course, there is a fuel at return.

Almost the same order, because I think that numbers on cap at you picture are a little bit wrong Here is how it look at my car:







HT leads order - correct

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Five years...
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Any other ideas?

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Five years...
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I'd start at step 2.0 of the FSM Electrical Testing section for "Engine not running".

2.0 Crankshaft position sensor - Ignition OFF. Detach CPS at Ignition Control Module. Should be 680-1200 Ohms

2.1 Crankshaft position sensor - Detach CPS at Ignition Control Module. Engine Start. Sensor should read >= 1V

2.2 Crankshaft position sensor - Detach CPS at Ignition Control Module. Test to ground (testing insulation of sensor coil). Should read >= 200k Ohms

Step 2.0 - pass. I have checked resistance but also...

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Five years...
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What duty cycle are you getting with KOEO?

Sorry for the double post. But if you don't get 70% you'll want to test the throttle micro switch and TPS. If you do, then do:

3.0 Dwell Angle - Start the engine while checking the duty cycle reading. Duct taping the meter to the windshield seems to work well to see the reading while cranking. Should be between 10-54%

If those two things checkout then:

4.1 Stall Current Cutoff - my car has never not started. I have no idea what this test is. I'd be interested if somebody else knows how to test whatever this is. (Whatever it is if it doesn't check out the suggested repair is to replace the EZL and ignition coil)

Just a random thought. How old is the gas?