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  #1  
Old 10-19-2017, 01:20 PM
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96 E300 belts chirp/squeak. Replaced everything. Still chirps.

I've tried everything.
new belt and tensioner pulley.
I used a parts store belt and that screeched like hell.
So I bought the contitech belt.
That stopped the screech.
After a few days it developed a chirp.
This chirp is present at start, idle and throttle. It only stops after the car has been running for about 30 minutes.... sometimes.

So I put some belt dressing on it.
That stopped the chirp for a few minutes.
I stopped the car let it sit a minute.
When I started it up.
The screech was back worse than before.
So I sprayed more on and let it run as the instructions on the bottle say.
I pressed down on the engine damper there and no difference
I added some tension by pulling the tensioner pivot arm (top of tensioner spring) a little bit and no difference.
The belt feels tight.

Looking through old reciepts I replaced the damper a few years back.. less than 15,000 miles ago.

What am I missing?
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96 E300D, 71 Baja Beetle, 77 Convertible Beetle, 2003 Subaru Forester.

Last edited by ChrisArnt; 10-19-2017 at 01:58 PM. Reason: Clarification
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  #2  
Old 10-19-2017, 04:21 PM
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Chris, remove the drive belt and check the condition of the fan clutch bearing bracket. I suspect it may have excess play due to worn/failing ball bearings. You can buy a reconditioned fan clutch bearing bracket at your local MB dealer, but need to turn in the old one to avoid paying the core charge.
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  #3  
Old 10-19-2017, 05:21 PM
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I agree with fan clutch pulley.. my 94 has play in the fan clutch pulley. It chirps / squeals until warm
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  #4  
Old 10-19-2017, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferdman View Post
Chris, remove the drive belt and check the condition of the fan clutch bearing bracket. I suspect it may have excess play due to worn/failing ball bearings. You can buy a reconditioned fan clutch bearing bracket at your local MB dealer, but need to turn in the old one to avoid paying the core charge.
The fan is off the car right now. Still squeaking.

I was just about to click "PAY" and buy a new URO fan clutch, but figured I would try a little penetrating oil on the bearing first.
When I had it off I decided to see if the chirp stopped with it off and it is still there.

Is this the part you are talking about?
Fan Clutch 6032000022 - Uro Parts - Mercedes-Benz - 603-200-00-22 | Pelican Parts
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  #5  
Old 10-19-2017, 05:31 PM
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What size alternator do you have? I would install an overrunning alternator pulley.
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  #6  
Old 10-19-2017, 05:31 PM
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I'm thinking I will go buy a new belt and this time strip the paint off the belt tensioner pulley.
Is that crazy?
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  #7  
Old 10-19-2017, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisArnt View Post
I'm thinking I will go buy a new belt and this time strip the paint off the belt tensioner pulley.
Is that crazy?
Yes.

When you remove the belt, can you spin every pulley by hand freely? Is your belt tensioner spring stretched beyond spec?

Also, when you buy a belt, make sure it the belt length corresponds to the size if your water pump pulley. There are 2 different sizes.

This information also applies to the OM606.




The longer belt length is 2145mm.

Pulley PNs:
#6032050110, 138mm diameter
#6032050210, 157mm diameter

If you have the small pulley get the short belt, if you have the large pulley get the long belt.
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  #8  
Old 10-19-2017, 06:21 PM
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"When you remove the belt, can you spin every pulley by hand freely? Is your belt tensioner spring stretched beyond spec?"

I don't know, but the tensioner spring is what came on the car when I bought it.

As far as the belt...



My alternator is a valeo. ( I found that out after I ordered the bosch voltage regulator)

I just found the receipt for the belt and pulley that was on there from 2014 from pelican parts (did not squak for a few years). had I known that I would not have replaced the pulley, trying to think if I threw the pulley out or not... .
Sales slip (pelican parts) says 6k x 2140 010-997-79-92
The one I have on the car says 6PK 2140

I looked online and they are the same as far as I can tell.

I measure the cooling pump pulley and it is 157 MM.

It sounds like I have the correct belt.

I cleaned the gunk out of the pulley grooves before installing the new one. Would that make a difference?
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Last edited by ChrisArnt; 10-19-2017 at 06:38 PM.
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  #9  
Old 10-19-2017, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisArnt View Post
I've tried everything.
new belt and tensioner pulley.
I used a parts store belt and that screeched like hell.
So I bought the contitech belt.
That stopped the screech.
After a few days it developed a chirp.
This chirp is present at start, idle and throttle. It only stops after the car has been running for about 30 minutes.... sometimes.
I had a similar situation recently. Replaced everything in the belt tensioning system - belt, shock, spring, tensioner arm, tensioner pulley, etc. - didn't fix the problem. Belt chirp & squeal that only happened when car was first started and first few minutes of driving, but went away once engine was warmed up. Here's my thread: 606 crank pulley? See post #6 from Murkybenz, he was right on the money.

The problem on my car was the water pump. Water pump bearings had gone bad, causing drag on the pulley and squeals and chirps from the belt. When I replaced the water pump, I found it was the almost twenty year old original from 1998. As soon as I replaced the water pump, the noise was completely gone!
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  #10  
Old 10-19-2017, 07:03 PM
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I'm fixing to be there with my 98 E300 at 198k miles. Mine squeaks/squeals once it hits about 2800 rpm.
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  #11  
Old 10-19-2017, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisArnt View Post
So I put some belt dressing on it.
That stopped the chirp for a few minutes.
I stopped the car let it sit a minute.
When I started it up.
The screech was back worse than before.
Belt dressing won't help, ever. It is too sticky at first then drys to a hard slick finish.

The source of flat belt noise is the back of belt is sliding front to back across the flat pulleys making the chirp. ( not a slipping in rotation problem )

First, clean all of the dressing off the pulleys, this will be difficult and time consuming.

Sand the flat pulleys in a cross hatch pattern with 80 grit paper leaving them slightly rough. Paint isn't an issue as bare steel can be noisy as well.

Lightly sand the label on the belt, just take off the slick shiny surface, no need to remove the numbers. This is the source of a cyclic chirp.

The goal is for the pulley to grip the belt rather than letting is slide front to back across the surface.
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  #12  
Old 10-19-2017, 07:49 PM
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As stated above, never use belt dressing.
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Old 10-19-2017, 07:52 PM
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Chris.

Not sure if you did this or not. I just thought that I would mention it.

When changing the idle arm pulley. I believe that one is supposed to add grease if I am not mistaken.

Regards.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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  #14  
Old 10-19-2017, 08:04 PM
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ok. I'm gonna try to clean the pulleys cross sand the tensioner pulley before I go replacing the water pump. Can I clean the pulleys with brake cleaner? carb cleaner is less corrosive.


There is a hole in the top of the water pump housing.
Can I add a drop or two of 2-1 oil?

I did not grease the tensioner puller. I guess I should do that.

Is the water pump a big job? I already have the fan off and fan shroud off.
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  #15  
Old 10-19-2017, 08:07 PM
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Water pump replacement is real ez with fan/fan clutch off. Turn the water pump shaft and see how it "feels". Any roughness, hard to turn?

Quote:
There is a hole in the top of the water pump housing.
Can I add a drop or two of 2-1 oil?
That is the weep hole. Coolant will come out of it when the water pump seal does not work anymore.
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